Thread: Wheel bearings, Stub axles and Ignorance

without getting up close and personal.. DONT USE IT (not as is anyway)

Take it to a machine shop, have them lathe it back then manufacture an insert that needs to be pressed or heat expanded on,

While (atm) it may be hunky dory by hand with the weight of a rover on it you will get race flex, thats badm They will work for a while but they will go pearshaped very very quickly.(think speedy sleeves on steroids)


That said, if you have to use it it will work as a stop gap but source a repaired one or a new one asap. This is one of the good things about landys everything is overengineered enough to allow you to make repairs or limp home on damaged items...

So if I put the new bearings on this one to drive around to get a replacement (say 150Km) are you saying the bearings will be ruined?

Dont get it machined.
Get a new one of a good 2nd hand one from the wreckers.

Originally Posted by sclarke

Dont get it machined.
Get a new one of a good 2nd hand one from the wreckers.

Can you tell me what to look for to know I'm getting a good one? (How much should I expect to pay?)

Originally Posted by DiscoDave

Can you tell me what to look for to know I'm getting a good one? (How much should I expect to pay?)

IMO when it comes to things like stub axles, new is the only replacement. You were lucky it was a rear. Give Peter at Range Parts a call on 02 9896 2355.

Justin

Originally Posted by DiscoDave

So if I put the new bearings on this one to drive around to get a replacement (say 150Km) are you saying the bearings will be ruined?

nope longer term than that...

Its one of those things that could last 6 months of normal driving to 600 years...

your going to find that getting it machined properly will probabley cost more than buying the replacement, but sometimes its quicker...

IF your only going slow and easy the bearings will hold out on the one youve filed providing its not too far out of whack and the backing support for locating the bearing is still in good nick...


dont risk it for longer than you have to and then put it in the parts box as a spare for when you really kill one

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

nope longer term than that...

Its one of those things that could last 6 months of normal driving to 600 years...

your going to find that getting it machined properly will probabley cost more than buying the replacement, but sometimes its quicker...

IF your only going slow and easy the bearings will hold out on the one youve filed providing its not too far out of whack and the backing support for locating the bearing is still in good nick...


dont risk it for longer than you have to and then put it in the parts box as a spare for when you really kill one

Thanks BK, I appreciate your expert comments.
Machining is out because I just know they will turn around and ask me some question I have no idea about, like what should the finished diameter be, what hardness of steel should be used, etc. etc.

I'm not going slow and easy - I want to drive up the F3 next weekend!

So I'm looking for a "good" second hand, ABS compatible, rear stub axle.
I've had one suggestion for a source. Any others?

The picture shows the stub axle with the old stuffed bearing inner race still on, what does the stub look like with the old race removed? It will probably be fine , but the sealing surface for the hub seal may need a tidy up, hard to tell with the old bearing race still there. If the part of the stub where the inner bearing sits is not chewed up and the new bearing slides on ok, all is fine. Really need a pic with the race removed.