Thread: Far'n clutch forks in 300Tdi's....

Sorry to hear mate

which way are you going about it dropping the box or pulling the motor out

It seems pulling the motor is the better option and mines sitting on 216000 ks so i guessing im next

Originally Posted by rick130

looks like it's finally happened to me too. JC said at 220,000km to expect either the centre to let go, the springs to disintegrate or the spigot to punch through the fork, well, the clutch pedal started to get hard to push, then went to the floor without disengaging, now when pulled back up is as hard as a rock. Looks like the spigot's punched through the fork.

Had to drive this afternoon and will have to for the next few days clutchless. Puts a friggin strain on the battery/starter starting the bloody thing in gear from a stop. At least the t/case seals and the g/box shifter housing bush seal will now get changed.

An order will be faxed through for parts on Monday morning including a clutch kit, spigot, fork, thrust race, pilot bush. (frig, haven't done a clutch in ten years, where is that dummy shaft )

So, what else ?

Input shaft seal too ?

And, anything tricky re the rear main seal while I'm there ?

Sorry about that Rick, I guess if I hadn't said anything...or that butterfly in Mexico hadn't flapped its wings!

Make sure you order an AP Borg and Beck clutch, not a Valeo. Chip out the old spigot bush, and don't grease the new one, just force engine oil through it as it is sintered bronze like the holden ones. ( or soak in warm oil overnight)
When fitting the rear main seal, use the applicator that comes attached to the seal, and only LIGHTLY oil the crank surface. You actually want almost NO oil at all. Don't use the gasket supplied with the oil seal carrier, just use a decent silicone type RTV sealant, Wurth or Permatex Ultra blue or something from LOctite that is used for sump attaching. LR use a sealant for their sumps that looks awefully like sikaflex and is just as hard to remove. I thinbk LOctite make it for them. We just use Wurth black RTV. The reason for this is that it is possible for the seal carrier to be distorted during tightening as the gasket will crush unevenly across the bottom because there are not enough bolts....This will make it leak, possibly worse than before.
Good luck, and don't forget to use the old clutch fork as a mantelpiece ornament.
Any time give me a call, Or PM if you need help with anything.

JC

Originally Posted by rangieman

Sorry to hear mate

which way are you going about it dropping the box or pulling the motor out

It seems pulling the motor is the better option and mines sitting on 216000 ks so i guessing im next

t/case, g/box as a few seals need changing too. (had the t/case ones in stock for about three years just waiting for this eventuality )

Originally Posted by justinc

Sorry about that Rick, I guess if I hadn't said anything...or that butterfly in Mexico hadn't flapped its wings!

Make sure you order an AP Borg and Beck clutch, not a Valeo. Chip out the old spigot bush, and don't grease the new one, just force engine oil through it as it is sintered bronze like the holden ones. ( or soak in warm oil overnight)
When fitting the rear main seal, use the applicator that comes attached to the seal, and only LIGHTLY oil the crank surface. You actually want almost NO oil at all. Don't use the gasket supplied with the oil seal carrier, just use a decent silicone type RTV sealant, Wurth or Permatex Ultra blue or something from LOctite that is used for sump attaching. LR use a sealant for their sumps that looks awefully like sikaflex and is just as hard to remove. I thinbk LOctite make it for them. We just use Wurth black RTV. The reason for this is that it is possible for the seal carrier to be distorted during tightening as the gasket will crush unevenly across the bottom because there are not enough bolts....This will make it leak, possibly worse than before.
Good luck, and don't forget to use the old clutch fork as a mantelpiece ornament.
Any time give me a call, Or PM if you need help with anything.

JC

thanks for the tips mate. Appreciate it.

All my parts orders this week have either been wrong on arrival or RS on fitting or just plain haven't turned up, my Hilti hammer drill went phhhht barely into a job on the hardest bricks in the known universe (that my Makita could barely scratch) and now the clutch.

At least your butterfly comment put a smile on the dial.

Originally Posted by rick130

t/case, g/box as a few seals need changing too. (had the t/case ones in stock for about three years just waiting for this eventuality )



thanks for the tips mate. Appreciate it.

All my parts orders this week have either been wrong on arrival or RS on fitting or just plain haven't turned up, my Hilti hammer drill went phhhht barely into a job on the hardest bricks in the known universe (that my Makita could barely scratch) and now the clutch.

At least your butterfly comment put a smile on the dial.

So have you met up with ron (P38 Rover) lately i hope you have,nt caught something!

Originally Posted by rick130

looks like it's finally happened to me too. JC said at 220,000km to expect either the centre to let go, the springs to disintegrate or the spigot to punch through the fork, well, the clutch pedal started to get hard to push, then went to the floor without disengaging, now when pulled back up is as hard as a rock. Looks like the spigot's punched through the fork.

Had to drive this afternoon and will have to for the next few days clutchless. Puts a friggin strain on the battery/starter starting the bloody thing in gear from a stop. At least the t/case seals and the g/box shifter housing bush seal will now get changed.

An order will be faxed through for parts on Monday morning including a clutch kit, spigot, fork, thrust race, pilot bush. (frig, haven't done a clutch in ten years, where is that dummy shaft )

So, what else ?

Input shaft seal too ?

And, anything tricky re the rear main seal while I'm there ?

What a pain!!, The things to look forward to, my 130 is getting up there., Don't quiet get what goes nuts with that fork, doesn't that carry the thrust bearing, does it stuff up at its swivel point?

Cheers Sumo.

Oooh, bad luck Rick. Although I know how you feel.

Are you going to do the intermediate shaft O rings too?

Paul

Originally Posted by sumo

What a pain!!, The things to look forward to, my 130 is getting up there., Don't quiet get what goes nuts with that fork, doesn't that carry the thrust bearing, does it stuff up at its swivel point?

Cheers Sumo.

In typical rover wisdom, they changed to pressed metal for the clutch fork. They wear through on the pivot.

If you weld a doubler on the back side, the new one has more material to wear through before it fails.

Originally Posted by Defender200Tdi

Oooh, bad luck Rick. Although I know how you feel.

Are you going to do the intermediate shaft O rings too?

Paul

yep. They've been in my little box of Rover bits since we first talked about this, which I'm guessing is about three years ago...

Originally Posted by rangieman

So have you met up with ron (P38 Rover) lately i hope you have,nt caught something!

I've tried not to read that thread of Ron's as that is what has been happening here far too frequently for far too long. It'd make me too depressed. I'm happy in my denial that silly things are happening here ATM.

Originally Posted by Bush65

In typical rover wisdom, they changed to pressed metal for the clutch fork. They wear through on the pivot.

If you weld a doubler on the back side, the new one has more material to wear through before it fails.

I'll be brazing something onto the back to prolong the life a little.