Thread: Disk front end for a 2a??

Hi Mate
I too have a Series with a 302 Cleveland.
Mine is in limbo,started a full rebuild and got carried away with the bodylift,it will be too hard to licsence in WA now.
BRAKES.
Discs are EXPENSIVE,search Ti-Console on google,they do a bolt on kit.The have an Aussie distributer.
What front drums are you running???
I up-graded mine to original 6cyl Series fronts,they are 3 inches wide instead of the standard 2 1/4 inch wide shoes,a huge increase in braking surface area.
Mine are untried,but my Bro has a 2a wagon with a worked 4.1 and auto,his stops will with this combo.
You need the following ex an original 6cyl or station wagon Series.3" drums/shoes/backing plates/wheel cylinders(if you have an early Ser2a or SWB ).Its a simple change over,use the Ser3 or county dual system booster too,it will improve your brakes hugely!!!
Goodluck
Andrew

G'day Stomps

I will agree with LandyAndy on that one, the 3" inch front drums with boosted M/cylinder went right through from the S 3, Stage 1 V8 and 110 county in V8 and Diesel 3.9, you will have to get the Ser3 pedalbox assembly complete,(it's a straight swap,6 bolts and a 1/4 turn) and the right hand guard, as it has the cutaway for the Booster unit and guard strengthing

cheers
Uncle Ho

Guys, thanks for your thoughts.

I will grab a tape measure tommorow and measure the width.
Even though it is a 2a it was rebuilt in the early 80s buy a bloke who put in state of the art stuff (then series 3) v8 diffs etc I wouldnt be surprised if this stuff had already been done. Only tommorow will tell.
Ive been told to put in a second master running the front lines which should give me better stopping power. Any thoughts??

Thanks Stomps

Comparing the disk front County with the drum front Stage 1, the County had slightly better pedal feel, but the Stage 1 pulls up very well. I've never had a practical reason to seriously consider converting to disks.

Do your brakes have the vacuum booster? THAT makes a huge difference! If you're running 3 inch drums without the booster, then that might be your problem!

The best arguement for disks that I've seen is that the drums, having double leading shoes, don;t stop as well in reverse, but that isn't your complaint.

I had a series 2 SWB with an XB falcon 250CUI pursuit engine, electronic dizzy and yellow terra head. Used to light up all four wheels off the lights.

My point is yes stopping is an issue with the SWB's due to the single piston set up on the brakes.

My fix for it (which worked absolutley beautifully) was to install a HR Holden brake booster (they can be mounted remotely from the prake pedal) and this worked a treat.

The other option is what I did in my "bitsa" series 3 wagon.
The series 3 had the same ford engine, torro overdrive (which allowed it to do 170km/h with the 3.5:1 diffs) HR brake booster, XF falcon rear discs all round, Dyna 4 spot truck calipers on front, HZ holden calipers on the back, ZD fairlane power steering ram, home made power steering pump, It had a heap of other mods but they were the main ones, every year without fail in the Pink Slip brake test it would score 96 - 98% brake efficency

As far as the legallities, my motto has always been what the rta doesn't know doesn't hurt them.... as for when the pink slip mob asks for the engineering certificate two phrases have always worked for me "it came out like that mate" or "it passed no problems every other year" I'll be stuffed if i ever let the rego lapse though......

I'd say trhat there would have to be approxamatly 30% degridation of stopping power in reverse. Mind you out of all the army rovers that I have driven (especially the old 2a 106 RCL carriers "no brakes") it stops pretty well forwards. The box is a T10 auto which I pretty much change down manually and it hasnt let me down yet.
It does have a vacume booster, I'd be buggerd if it didnt. I've been told that if piggyback a second booster for the front end and utalise the existing for the rear then it will pull up quicker.

I'm not extremly distraught about its ability to pull up (although it's not great) I'm just throwing the problem in the air in the interest of betterment.

Once again thanks heaps,

Stomps.

I fitted Landcruiser axles. If it'll stop 3T of rust it'll stop my weeny Rover. It'll also change you diff ratios to 4.11, stud patterns to something easy to get, increase axle strength and widen the track.

Try this site for info
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/