Thread: Danger Warning, Crud Thats not right...

Ok so the more attentive of you know that big red is due her 100K Km service and work started today at about 1300.


by about 1430 I was wishing I hadnt...

Anyhow...

The plan

1. Remove the wheels balance them and position them for the rotation and as safety stops in case the hoist crept (done)
2. Drain and repace all the under body oils (done)
3. Grease the under body (done)
4. security check all the underbody bolts and fittings (done)
5. remove the propshafts, inspect, check drive flanges on tcase for play and with the brakes pressed off the rotors check the rotational resitance/play and lash of the diffs (done)
6. Remove the brakes for inspection then pull the hubs for a wheel bearing inspection and regrease. (1 done sort of)
7. drain the cooling system and flush in preperation for new coolant (drained)
8. remove all cooling system hoses for replacement
9. Remove all turbo hoses for replacement for silicone ones
10. Remove the rockercover and replace injector harness
11. change all filters
12. security check on all engine fittings
13. remove and replace the serpentine belt, idler and tensioner
14. Clean out the EGR valve
15. Flush the intercooler
16. replace all the hoses
17. Headlight alignement check
18. door hinge and catch adjustments
19. remove trim and lube internal window slides
20. replace both batteries
21. Clean out the car put it on the washbay hoist and clean it up a little.

Items 4,5+6 are where the warnings come in...

1, some idiot used full thread bolts on the rear diff and they were slopping in the holes and the threads have deformed and the propshaft side of the flange coupling (the bit thats held together with 4 bolts) has minor elognation

2. My gearbox mounts nuts (on the gearbox side) were loose.

3. Some dill has not done up the 5 10mm 10.9 bolts correctly on the drivers side front (likely on all of them) and they have reused the supposedly non reusable locking bolt I can tell this as its got chisel marks where it was not pressed into the flat on the stub. The bolts have some slight shearing to them where the drive plate has been knocking them at some stage (most likely when TC is active on that wheel) I snapped 2 trying to undo them with a 17mm ring spanner. Understandable IF I was going in the direction of tighten with a 6 foot long extention bar. There was also no circlip on the end of the shaft.

4. Grease in the bearings... There was something in there looked sort of like grease Whoever put it together has put the most insignificatn amount of grease in the hub, With what came out of the hub I dont think I could have packed a Swivel pin bearing let alone a singe wheel bearing The grease Was that loverly burnt grease colour so its obviously been failed for quite some time.

The main points

Check your propshafts regularly (mine gets a MK I eyeball every service) Icluding the bolts and flange to flange alignment

2. Next time the wheels come off check the drive flange bolts, circlips and the grease in the bearings if your anywhere near a 50 k km interval.

6 hours down and Ive got to buy a new hub as the easy out is snapped off inside the housing in a bolt that Im pretty sure is in cross threaded.

Wow Dave sounds like the person who worked on your car is the same and responsible for mechanics being sledged it is those kinds of thing which cause the bad names...but all trades have cowboys.... I had a brickie with me for one day..I picked up on some sloppy workmanship and his reply "Who gives a ****, not my house" My reply was "Not your job either mate , **** off" and I kept his days pay as I had to fix his mistake. I'm sure there are dealers who keep mechanics on bad pay and turn a blind eye to their crap work