Thread: TD5 vibration 2500-3500 rpm

It seems strange that removing the acoustic cover would reduce your problem.

The flexible joint in the exhaust downpipe has been known to cause a drone/rattle if it's on it's last legs.

Propshafts can be a problem, especially the front DC joint.

It would be rare for the flywheel to have a problem at those sort of Km - I haven't heard of one anyway.

Was the car serviced recently or did you notice the noise after work was done to the engine?

Check that the exhaust manifold heat shield is tightened properly, especially the bolt at the back close to the air filter box. Also, check that the air inlet hose is not vibrating against anything. Both of these have caused vibrating noises on mine before.

Originally Posted by Graeme

In attempting to find the reason for a cabin drone from just over 100kph in my manual Disco that's been there for a long time, if not forever, I discovered that between approx 2500 and 3500rpm the engine vibrates so much that it sounds as though its about to fly apart, although by 4000rpm its smooth again. With the accoustic cover removed the vibration and noise is only slightly reduced. The harmonic balancer appears not to be jumping about at all. The engine has always seemed harsh as it gets near 3000rpm and worst at about 3500rpm but I've not done a stationary test before.
The clutch has always been a bit suspect, with various attempts to get it looked at whilst under warranty, but to no avail, so I'm wondering if the dual mass flywheel has a problem.
The noise at 110kph on the freeway makes me want to slow to 100 to avoid it, although its not there on overrun. It is worse when the engine is working harder.

Does this vibration and noise sound normal for the TD5? This is my 2nd TD5 and I cannot imagine buying this 2nd one if the 1st was like this. This one has done 140,000kms, the previous 180,000kms.

I've looked at previous posts but cannot see references to vibrations at higher revs.

TIA,
Graeme

Double cardan joint front shaft, have it checked, it was my vibration problem, the text in bold is what swayed me.

My symtoms were the same

Baz.

Thanks for the replies.

Removing the cover makes 1 less item to vibrate, so a little less noise.

I'll have to properly check the exhaust flexible joint, as I've only given it a glance to date.

The vibration and noise is there with the vehicle at stand-still, but the DC is OK anyway. I keep a regular check on my rebuild. The noise is engine revs related - its there at the same rev range in every gear.

The noise has been there for ages, but I don't know if its getting worse or not. I do my own servicing.

The clip on the LHS of the block that holds the clutch pipe has broken, so the pipe could be rattling. But its not a little rattle, rather a very deep and heavy noise.

The problem still exists with the fan removed, a/c off and ACE without pressure (at stand-still).

It could be an injector with a problem, although there's no discernable performance problem, being chipped etc - it still goes like a rocket.

Thanks again
Graeme

As you can reproduce it without driving, drop the serpentine belt off & give it a try then - just to eliminate the ancilliaries.

I had vibration and noises at 2250.not before but smack on 2250rpm.spent lots of time checking all sorts of things ,but it wasnt untill I replaced a leaking tappet cover gasket when I cleaned the injector harness(forgot to order new one) that the vibration went and motor is running sweet again(really sweet).Harness was cleaned all the way to computer.It is amazing the difference in the before and after.
It may help you,easy to check if oil in connectors.

Originally Posted by Scouse

As you can reproduce it without driving, drop the serpentine belt off & give it a try then - just to eliminate the ancilliaries.

I'm reluctant to run the engine at 3500rpm, in fact any rpm, without the water pump, having already paid a $10,000+ penalty for destroying the head on my '99. But I can run it without the ACE pump and without the alternator albeit on different occasions so I will do that. I will put the original belt back on as the current belt causes the tensioner pulley to jump a little at idle as though there's a stiff spot in it.

There is no oil in the injector harness plug at the front of the head. I check it regularly and checked it again today. Excepting that the engine pulls smoothly, I imagine that running on 4 cyls would make this sort of racket, as would grossly advanced ignition timing on a petrol engine. Its as though the engine is operating under a huge load, yet has no load at all.

Thanks,
Graeme

"Its as though the engine is operating under a huge load, yet has no load at all.".
I will be watching this forum with interest.Had the same problem but after cleaning harness at all ends it came good.I had to disconnect my neg earth strap to get the comp out,maybe that cleared the comp .The update had been done to the inj/harness but there was still a heap of oil at the injector pins on the ecu.
One good thing about this site ,if we keep passing info we may get this top little donk going.(sorta)
ps .also opened up exhaust,replaced flex connection(on exhaust pipe) checked/serviced sensors,changed ALL oils and serp belt.