Thread: Method for 300TDI bearing cap t piece install

Can I ask why you would need to make a clamp tool?

You need to remove the cap to fit the T seals, but I haven't seen the guys here use anything special. The cap can be a tight fit & sitting it in the freezer for a while will make it easier to fit.

For the benefit of others who might be contemplating t-seals - when I replaced the crank in 2005, I fitted new seals, and they were difficult to install. And since then I've had a persistent leak. I always put it down to the rear main oil seal gasket (now discontinued) having warped the aluminum housing of the seal itself. Now, after doing some gearbox work, and replacing the rear main seal without the gasket but with sealant, I find that the oil leak still persists. So the next suspect is that I've somehow ruptured the t-seals on assembly. The freezing trick will make life easier, and I'll report in due course.
(And thanks to Mr Scouse for the info)

on my rebuild my gasket set came with cork t seals and were a serious pain to fit. however with some care i got them in and to be on the safe side i coated the external seams on the cap with black max and seems leak free so far. why the poms insist on sealing stuff like this no one will ever know the tdi and rover v8 are the only engines i have seen where the rear cap needs a seal. even old fords and chevs with the crapy rope seal dont need a seal on the cap

You ain't kidding

When I overhauled my 300tdi, I was supplied the cork T pieces and found that applying flange sealant to the cork and surrounding groove allowed them to slide into place very easily. Care must be taken at this point.

Rover changed from the T-seal, to sealant injected into the groove after the cap is fitted. That reinforces the issues with fitting the seal so that it seals properly.

IMHO it would need a special long thin nozzle to ensure the sealant is distrubuted properly in the bottom of the groove. So we continue to battle with the T-seal.

The friction, which stretches the seal as the cap is fitted is a problem - silicon applied to the seal helps to reduce the friction.

The other problem is the edge of the block, which catches the seal protruding from the side of the cap. The special tool that I believe Langy is referring to, can be made from 2 pieces of plate - they provide a gentle chamfer to lead the seal into the reccess for the cap. IMHO well worth using.

Originally Posted by Bush65

The other problem is the edge of the block, which catches the seal protruding from the side of the cap. The special tool that I believe Langy is referring to, can be made from 2 pieces of plate - they provide a gentle chamfer to lead the seal into the reccess for the cap. IMHO well worth using.

Here's a picture of the plates (LRT-12-035):
Rear main cap.jpg

What is the part number for these T-seals? And was it determined that it is easy enough to replace just by taking sump off?