Thread: Salisbury Disc Brake conversion

Hello all of you that have a Salisbury in the rear of your 110 that has drum brakes.

I have run across a pretty simple and inexpensive way to convert them to disc brakes using components you can find at the wrecking yard or new if you choose.

Here's how we do it over here, keeping in mind that for the most part we do not have the same "Variety" of LR's you guys do, we rarely see an '83 RRC or much of any Rover until 1987. Based on what I've found there are big variations in the "really early" trucks but heck here's a go.

This is for the Salisbury as found in a coil sprung LR 110 that has the outer oil seal under the wheel bearing nuts, there is a shoulder on the spindle/stub axle onto which part of that seal sits, the dimensions of that stub axle are identical to a pre ABS RRC, knowing that we can use the hubs from that Range Rover, we may be able to use the rotor too but bear in mind I've only used Disco and later RRC rotor which have less offset that the early rotors.

Another note: Earlier (83,84?) Salisbury hubs do not have the shoulder for the seal and would require either some lathe work or a spacer behind the outer wheel bearing cup.
Back on track. Use the rotors from a Post 1994 Disco and the calipers too, the rotors bolt right onto the hub. If you get the calipers from the wrecker get the caliper bolts, they are a fine thread metric that are not the same as early RRC, If the calipers come from an RRC check the bolts if they are fine thread metric they are what you want, really early ones where imperial.
Now the caliper bracket. It's is a LR factory piece part Number FTC3306. It replaces four of the nuts that hold the Spindle/Stub axle on the Salisbury housing. Remove the drum brake parts from the Salisbury and use this bracket. It is a current Rover part and should cost you under $100 (AUS) per each. I can source them for you if they are unavailable or priced poorly. The brackets cost $77.50 each and I'll send you a machined pair for $85 each.

Now as I mentioned before I wasn't sure about the caliper spacing of the early rotors,it may be that you can use this bracket in an unmodified state with early RRC rotors I have only used them with Disco rotors in the past (that's what we have most of up here) To use the Disco rotor you have to machine off .100" off the caliper mounting face of the Bracket, there is plenty of material left over so the strength of the bracket is in no way compromised.

Early RRC hubs have 3/8" fine thread flange bolts, later ones that will work have 10MM. All should have the same pilot diameter for the drive flange. I recommend that you only retain the outer hub seal and throw away all the others allowing the wheel bearings be lubricated with Diff oil, use Rover hub seal RTC3511 it is designed to run wet and does a good job of keeping the nasties out of your wheel bearings.

Probably clear as mud but with a little searching the wreckers guys around here usually manage to do the job with new Rotors and calipers for under $300 or so. Very cheap compared to the conversion kits available for over $1200!

I have many customers running this upgrade and are quite happy with the performance and the lack of adjustment the rear disc's require. I don't sell this as a kit mainly because it doesn't seem right, better to share what I learned.. Feel free to pass it along!

Originally Posted by mark2

In relation to m/c's:

British Off Road recommend a post 94 Defender master with a Disco booster as the best combination.

I have to agree.. However guys running the stock '93 components (MC Booster) are pretty happy with the results..

As for the Brackets do try to source them locally, but I can certainly help out if there's any trouble..