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Thread: 76 Rangie Clutch failure.....

  1. #1
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    76 Rangie Clutch failure.....

    Driving the newly purchased rangie out to Nambour this morning, decided to pull into the service station, pressed the clutch to change down and felt something suddenly "let go" in the pedal......then no clutch. Anyway, $150 poorer for a tow truck from Caboolture back to Brissy, having assertained that whatever it was, I wasn't going anywhere.

    Got the Rangie home and have found the following....

    Large spring on the clutch pedal is broken (not good), all the hydraulics are OK - no leaks and pushing fluid through (good). Removed the slave cylinder and found the clutch arm swinging freely (not good). So, any ideas, and can it be fixed without removing the engine? BTW, its a 4 speed (LT95), no overdrive.
    Last edited by Armadillo; 29th March 2008 at 02:50 PM. Reason: spelling

  2. #2
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    Sounds like a broken clutch fork(Unusual as these have cast iron ones, not pressed steel) or a collapsed thrust bearing carrier(More likely.)
    Engine out is quicker in a 76 RR.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    Great (not)..... now to find a manual etc. I'm contemplating doing it myself...have taken engines out of Minis and Holdens in the past, Any idea where I can get the parts here in Brissy - I've only been here for about 3 months and still finding my way around.

  4. #4
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    RAVE CD's are the LR workshop manuals, available from INC'cs(Site administrator) online shop, 'Daves interesting things'

    Very worthwhile to get yourself a set I advise.

    Also, MR automotive in Redcliffe are worth a visit/ phone call. Parts are also available through British 4X4 (Aulro sponsor) and others.

    Ask all the Questions you need to here. This is what it's for.

    Enjoy.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Thanks for that...The other option may be to get someone in to do it for me with the Rangie in situ, I'll have to sus it out. Work committments could make it a bit difficult for me to do it at the moment.

  6. #6
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    I swapped my LT95, (first attempt) sometime ago there will be a few pointers in this thread:

    swapping gearbox what do I need and ...

  7. #7
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    most often its a case of the plastic carrier having failed but occasionally the fork can shatter the slave cylinder side off of the fork. You'd be an unlucky bugger to have it happen tho. At any rate unless you know someone whose surgically good with a grinder and a mig/tig theres no way of sorting it without pulling the box or the donk (I suggest box)

    if you can when or before you replace the carrier try and get one thats in good nick, take it to a fabricators and say "please MR maker, can you duplicate this in steel? here is my credit card, thank you"
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  8. #8
    Rangier Rover Guest
    If you are pulling the box be a good time to get the heater core cleaned and tested. They tend to leak after a wile. May save you pulling the dash twice. Leave to two bolts out that are under heater for next time

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    If you are pulling the box be a good time to get the heater core cleaned and tested. They tend to leak after a wile. May save you pulling the dash twice. Leave to two bolts out that are under heater for next time
    Pull the dash? I've removed the g/box from my '79 RR (LT-NFI), and didn't find it too hard. Got the top two bolts out thru the g/box shifter hole.

    I would have thought removing the g/box would be easier than the removing the engine. Just f & r shafts, cross member, half the exhaust and those bolts. Drop it out downwards using a few jacks. Not thru the doors like the manual suggests! Do the easy-to-get-to bearings and seals while its out and the brass bearing thing in the clutch (forgotten it's name ).

  10. #10
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    IMHO To change a clutch , it's much easier to remove the engine.
    I have done an engine single handed with just a "come along", but I do not think I would try an LT95 without the proper cradle and a hoist.

    Alternatively pulling the complete interior out seems crazy regarding the relative time required vs removing the engine. And you can change the LT95 oil pump gears and fit new front seals ( and fit a new fork etc.)from the bellhousing.
    regards Philip A

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