Thread: td5 clutch help.

Hi, firstly I am not a mechanic. I replaced my TD5 Disco clutch at 180k kms because of an annoying noise when I depressed the clutch. Problem turned out to be the spiggot bearing on the end of the crank - the clutch was hardly worn. My dual mass flywheel had similar or slightly more movement by hand so I took this to a Land Rover mechanic who informed me this is normal, so I reinstalled it along with a new clutck pack (50k kms ago). I read that under load they can move through 180 degrees. Having said that, the flywheel from my TD5 was not discoloured as yours is.

Is it possible that you have an incorrect slave cylinder installed - too long a stroke? I assume your clutch plate was quite worn. Cheers, Bundalene.

thats the thing, the clutch plate and pressure plate are as good as new
the clutch fiber isnt burnt and its only .6mm thinner that the new one.
fingers on the pressure plate are good and the drive surface has no discolouration at all??? can still see the machine marks...

dont know about 180 deg, my manual says 70 deg in either direction.

thanks for the reply though bundelene

geeze! this must be to technicial for you lot

maybe i should stick to the simple things like what oil i should i use and how to wire up a winch

Originally Posted by discowhite

geeze! this must be to technicial for you lot

maybe i should stick to the simple things like what oil i should i use and how to wire up a winch

wonder whether it would be worth posting up on pirate forum phil or even a forum in uk.

To save the reputation of AULRO - if I may.

2. Provided that the correct slave cyl ( FTC 5202 - the same as a Tdi) has been used, then the pushrod extending as you remove it is normal due to fluid flowing downhill and maybe, according to RAVE, some sort of spring assistance on the clutch pedal in a TD5 defender. Disco's, as you may recall, don't have a spring on the clutch pedal, and their pushrod extend when one removes the slave from the housing.

1. A hydraulic system should be somewhat self adjusting. However, if the pedal was incorrectly adjusted 30k ago, you should have smelt something straight off. The fact that there isn't clutch dust everywhere leads me to believe that the pedal was reasonably correct (but not to spec as you found out).

3. Could the slave still have an air bubble in it? Given that it is the same as a Tdi, I know that they are difficult to get right the first time, so that might account for some differences now you've returned it to spec. Besides, changing the clutch fluid isn't too hard.


As for the flywheel in general: Well, it seems that the interior springs ( for those who are reading this and don't have RAVE, the dual mass flywheel apparently has springs in it just like a clutch plate) have had it. Not having played with a TD5, this is just supposition, but could the flywheel been the source of the excessive heat from friction somehow ? Taking the old flywheel apart would be interesting, just to see how much damage has been done. If it was the component providing the heat from friction between the two halves of the flywheel, that could produce the tigger effect. Also the clutch plate would get glazed somewhat, and that would cause the plate to slip - and there is your flare. Operate the clutch in and out, and that would roughen the surface a bit, and the clutch is back to normal.

So, in the absence of anything better, there's a decent explanation (ish)

I'm not a mechanic at all but I have been watching your problem Phil

Could it be what Langy is pointing to...something with the flywheel. Maybe the flywheel springs are not allowing the full 70 deg. movement which could heat up the clutch plate and create the 'tigger effect'. The clutch plate would hardly have any wear on it as you said as it appears to be a strobing effect.

What if the flywheel springs have collapsed and you now have more slack to take up with the pressure plate? Not enough 'grab' for the plate... EDIT.....all wrong of course as the pressure plate, clutch plate is fixed

Like I said, I'm no expert but it's interesting just the same.

thanks guy's
ive blead the system with a vacume bleeder, i did this after the first clutch was replaced and on the weekend. as for the slave, its never been off the car, and as far as i know its the OE part?

im gonna pull the DM flywheel apart after i deal with LR.
the manufacture date is 2003 so it shouldnt be one of the early td5 ones that self destructed.

just annoyed! this is the 2nd clutch to be replaced in 62 000k's! thats not right

cheers phil

Originally Posted by discowhite

thanks guy's
ive blead the system with a vacume bleeder, i did this after the first clutch was replaced and on the weekend. as for the slave, its never been off the car, and as far as i know its the OE part?

im gonna pull the DM flywheel apart after i deal with LR.
the manufacture date is 2003 so it shouldnt be one of the early td5 ones that self destructed.

just annoyed! this is the 2nd clutch to be replaced in 62 000k's! thats not right

cheers phil

I don't know if this may help, but it might be the dual mass flywheel, after talking to Peter, he said that if they have indications of slipping and burn marks, they should be replaced when doing the clutch, when he did mine he checked for this saying mine was OK and didn't need replacing, maybe it should have been replaced when LR did it 30,000ks ago.

Have a word with Peter and maybe show him that pic of the DM Flywheel. 0410 503 500, can't hurt to get another opinion.

Baz.