Thread: TD5 head assembly...... Pt 1

Right, so carrying on with this:

Firstly fit bung in rear face of head assembly:



Here is the rocker shaft that operates the injectors.



Put it in place:



Apply new engine oil:



Position bolts:



Place in camshaft locking bolt



Tighten then down evenly and gently. (You could back off all the adjustment screws here but I didnt. I will check the injector bump clearances when the head is refitted) Also make sure here that the adjusters mate up with the injectors correctly



Tighten down. Once done it will look like this:



Now take gasket for fuel block



Position block and bolt in place:






Fit rear lifting eye:



Fit front lifting eye:



Last job on the head is to remove and replace the exhasut manifold studs but thats pretty straightforward so I wont get pictures of that!

Next up is to clean the engine block, pop to the Dealer and get the dowels, and soem manifold studs, and then start to put it back on!

Loving the head bolt torque instructions........

As regards the head bolt tensioning instructions Pete, With a Tdi you can get away with marking the headbolts, (45Nm, 2 steps of 60deg can be achieved by marking the points of the headbolts,60 x 6 = 360) but you will need a torque angle gauge to do it accurately with the Td5 I feel.

I CAN send you mine express post if you need to borrow it, but someone closer should surely have one they can lend you?

You can easily make one too, a 360deg plastic protractor, a piece of steel wire as a pointer, and you are there.

JC

Pete ;

that's a great post and write up mate, nice work.



urm...HAHN superdry is good stuff...

Hi Justin,

Thanks for the offer thats very kind.

Instructions are saying

48lb/ft + 90 deg + 180 deg +45 deg.

Do you not think I can do that with my big snap on knuckle bar, and marking the socket? (obviously doing teh 48lb/ft with a torque wrench)

They all seem relativeley easy angles to work with.

Rgds
Pete

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Pete ;

that's a great post and write up mate, nice work.

urm...HAHN superdry is good stuff...

Lol, thanks. So true!! I did have some Tooheys White stag but its not as nice! the Hahn is the beer of choice for assisting with a head rebuild!!

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

Hi Justin,

Thanks for the offer thats very kind.

Instructions are saying

48lb/ft + 90 deg + 180 deg +45 deg.

Do you not think I can do that with my big snap on knuckle bar, and marking the socket? (obviously doing teh 48lb/ft with a torque wrench)

They all seem relativeley easy angles to work with.

Rgds
Pete

No worries, you can do it by guestimating/ marking etc, I guess if you are confident and have a good eye then it is actually easier than using the torque angle gauge. It is even easier to have a spotter, as one person swings on the bar, the other watches the markings. When you get up to the 45deg stage you will need some good upper body strength if you are using only a standard breaker bar. Before I bought my latest one, 24" long, I had a 3 foot pipe on my standard length bar, and enlisted the help of an assistant to watch the markings as I casually walked round with the pipe!

Anyway, don't forget to oil under the bolt heads and threads lightly.

You're doing well!

Fun isn't it?

JC

Thanks Justin,

Yeah its pretty good actually. Certainly very glad I attempted it. Its actually fairly easy. (so far!)

My breaker bar is a 24" one too so hopefully I should be ok.

Yep, oiling the threads and under the heads is on my list.

Reckon, all being well, I may have the head back on tommorow.

I may leave the inlet manifold off until its on so its a bit lighter and more manouverable during fitting.

Will grab the dowels, studs, and some antifreze from LR tommorow and carry on. Next job is a big clean of the block.

great work... I dont use a torque angle gauge I use a paint pen and a scribe.

Paint mark the head where the bolt will go in and then do the bolt up to nominated torque. paint the side of your socket with the paint pen then scribe a line in. Now scribe a line through the paint on the block to match up with line on the socket when you sit the socket on the bolt head.

From here theres a couple of ways of aligning the end of turn. 1. use a ruler off of the bolt head itself the factets and flats will give you 60,30 and if your carefull enough 15 degree seperations. OR

with the mark in the block paint use a protractor measure off the turn needed and then mark the paint on the body again.

My favorite is as follows its a little more work to setup but IMHO its the most accurate way of doing it.

Mark out on a piece of ally a center pop with radius lines at the angles you need to hit hinging off the center pop. Grab a hole saw that cuts a hole that will just fit into the clearance space for the head bolt and drill out your marked ally then punch the "washer" out of the hole saw.

Now you can either lathe the center out Or cut it out with another hole saw but you need to enlarge the center hole so that it will just sit over the shoulder of the bolt. remake the marks on the new washer you have just finished making and after the initial torquing put the washer on, put the marked socket on, cross mark the washers start line onto the block incase it shifts (a touch of bluetack usually stops it) and then you have an at the bolt angle torque gauge.

it takes me about 20 minutes to make one up using 3mm ally plate.