Thread: Rebuilding a Rover V8

Sometimes the resistance of the belts isn't enough to stop it turning. I got the special tool from Difflock, basically two long handed purpose spanners. One goes on the pump to hold it still the other goes on the fan nut. Then give the latter a wack with a hammer. Mine turns anti-clockwise to undo (V8).

Khos has an "interim" belt setup with V belts and a "Heath Robinson" multi rib for the alternator, so his will undo clockwise. I had better add AFAIK.
Khos, hope you are watching
Regard sPhilip A

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Put the spanner on the nut .... and HIT the SIDE of the spanner with a hammer in a "clockwise direction" .... Trying to undo it with "arm power" won't work

Mike you are a "Legend" , thanks mate. it worked beaudiful.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Do the fan first as it has to have the resistance of the belts for the hammer blow to be effective.
Regards Philip A

Phill , Left the Belts on for resistance , "wacked" the Viscous Spanner with a Hammer a couple of Times and "Voila"

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Khos has an "interim" belt setup with V belts and a "Heath Robinson" multi rib for the alternator, so his will undo clockwise. I had better add AFAIK.
Khos, hope you are watching
Regard sPhilip A

Okay Made some progress , actually quite a Bit , I haven't been able to Get the Fuel Rail off the Injectors , I have removed the Fuel line and return , The A/C Compressor is off , The Alternator is off , Can't quite Work out how to get the Power Steering Pump off There is a Bolt that Holds the bracket underneath the Pump and I think it's 15mm and it's B#@$^%y Tight, I suspect it can't be undone until the Belt tension has been removed ??? any ideas ?? Please see the pic below


Also the Bolt tht Holds the Bracket in th front is rather unaccessaible , does the distributor Body( for lack of better term )need to be taken out for this Bolt to come off??





Edit: do I have to undo the 3 bolts that hold the Pully in-place before I can remove the P/S Pump?

Khos, that is a captive nut.
You undo the bolt from the front side. I think it is 1/2 AF AFAIR.
You can do it without the dizzy taken off but it is a nuisance.

SO do this.
Get some Tippex or similar then draw a line on the body onto an adjacent part of the engine so you can put it back how you took it out.
THEN mark the cap and the base of the dizzy . It only goes on one way but better safe than sorry.
THEN turn the engine to TDC firing which should have the mark at the crank pully at the TDC mark and the rotor should be pointing forwards but at no 1 plug wire. No 1 is the plug at the passenger side front. Mark this on the dizzy body.
The rotor will turn about 30 degrees as you pull the dizzy out so put a mark at the point on the dizzy where the rotor points once you have pulled out the dizzy . This helps you start at the correct place.

Mark the plug number on each plug lead either with tippex or on a bit of masking tape before you pull out any wires from the dizzy. The LH passenger set are 1 3 5 7 and the RH is 2 4 6 8 .

OK

do I have to undo the 3 bolts that hold the Pully in-place before I can remove the P/S Pump?

YES

You can see the sneaky allen bolt behind the bracket. Plus tehre is a nut on the front head bolt which is a special bolt with a nut then a thread for another bolt so you have to remember to do the final tension before putting the bracket back on.
Regard sPhilip A

This may help

Overhaul of the Rover V8 engine

do I have to undo the 3 bolts that hold the Pully in-place before I can remove the P/S Pump?

Khos, I may have misread your above.
NO you do not have to take the pulley off the PS pump.
When you undo the adjuster on the PS box, you swing the PS pump in and can slide the belt off.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Khos, that is a captive nut.
You undo the bolt from the front side. I think it is 1/2 AF AFAIR.
You can do it without the dizzy taken off but it is a nuisance.

SO do this.
Get some Tippex or similar then draw a line on the body onto an adjacent part of the engine so you can put it back how you took it out.
THEN mark the cap and the base of the dizzy . It only goes on one way but better safe than sorry.
THEN turn the engine to TDC firing which should have the mark at the crank pully at the TDC mark and the rotor should be pointing forwards but at no 1 plug wire. No 1 is the plug at the passenger side front. Mark this on the dizzy body.
The rotor will turn about 30 degrees as you pull the dizzy out so put a mark at the point on the dizzy where the rotor points once you have pulled out the dizzy . This helps you start at the correct place.

Mark the plug number on each plug lead either with tippex or on a bit of masking tape before you pull out any wires from the dizzy. The LH passenger set are 1 3 5 7 and the RH is 2 4 6 8 .

OK
YES

You can see the sneaky allen bolt behind the bracket. Plus tehre is a nut on the front head bolt which is a special bolt with a nut then a thread for another bolt so you have to remember to do the final tension before putting the bracket back on.
Regard sPhilip A

Well;
I Undid the Clamp plate Bolt

set the Engine to TDC by cranking the Crank Pully to No 1 cylinder
marked the alignment of the Rotor Arm with respect the distributor Body


scribed the body of the distributor to show it's relationship to timing cover

still can't withdraw the dristributor from timing cover??????

Originally Posted by djam1

This may help

Overhaul of the Rover V8 engine

thanks Djam1 will take a look.

Just give her a good pull mate. You can twist at the same time since you have now marked the relationship of the dizzy to the block.
There is an O ring on the shaft that sticks over time.
The rotor will rotate 30degrees in relation to the dizzy as you withdraw it, as the helical gear withdraws from the cam. It is helpful to mark its "going in position" so as to speak.
BTW your no1 is usually not that possy. It is usually 180degrees from there, so in the past someone has mixed up their TDCs. BUT it is nothing to worry about. Just the leads are cut to the lengths required and may be a bit short or long.
JUST BE SURE that the no1 lead was above the tip of the rotor at that position or you will wonder why it will not start when you get it back together.
Regards Philip A