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Thread: Camshaft Selection - 3.5 EFI

  1. #1
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    Camshaft Selection - 3.5 EFI

    As the heading suggests, I feel it is time to replace the camshaft in my Range Rover.

    The kilometres of the engine are unknown, but I estimate 300 - 350 000km or thereabouts.

    At this stage I don't want to do a rebuild, just slip in a new bumpstick and lifters, coupled with a new timing set.

    What is the best way to go? Standard 3.5 EFI cam, 3.9 EFI cam, pre pollution carb cam or aftermarket custom grind?

    I don't want to alter anything else with regards to the EFI system, so huge cams are out of the question.

  2. #2
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    The 3.9 cam is a good upgrade. So too is RPI's /Piper RP4 and Torquemaster cams. The Dynotecs 216 - 218 is the local equivalent.

    There are many cams, many special grind cams for this engine from the UK, US and Aus. Depends on what you want from the engine and your budget. Just remeber to fit new lifters too, and avoid the fancy types (Rhoads).

    For the timing gears I recommend the Rollmaster set up which can be purchased fromn any traditional or online Aussie speed shop.

  3. #3
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    Dynotec PC216 is the best one for an auto. The PC217 works well with manual, but has a fair bit more lift and as such can leave you with poor low engine speed vacuum, hence the unsuitability in an auto box vehicle in my opinion, stalling when put into drive was the main issue there. I wrongly selected one of these cams for a 3.9 auto D1 once, VERY impressive above 2000rpm all the way to 5500 with an ECU chip upgrade, but not as torquey around 1500 where the standard 3.9cam was fine. (Vehicle is now fitted with a Hicomp 4.6 and modded ZF auto)

    I have fitted the PC216 to an auto 3.5 flapper EFI and it went well., A standard 3.9EFI cam is a good one though, good vacuum and top end aswell.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
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    JC,

    The PC216 sounds like it might be a good one for me. I don't want to lose low end tractibility, even though I am running a manual transmission.

    Where do you source your cams from? Do they supply lifters as well?

    Cheers.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    JC,

    The PC216 sounds like it might be a good one for me. I don't want to lose low end tractibility, even though I am running a manual transmission.

    Where do you source your cams from? Do they supply lifters as well?

    Cheers.
    G'day Jon,

    I get them from my local parts supplier, who USED to get them from precision engine parts who have gone down the tube, but I have since bought a PC217 and followers from them (that I installed in an MGRV8 along with a chipped ECU ), so they must be getting them from elswhere.. I can get some info if you like? I got the lifters from them too,(Rover spec Delco ones) and IIRC the rollmaster adjustable chain kit came from them too.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #6
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    Yes please mate.

    Have you still got a contact number for me? I will pm it to you, just in case.

  7. #7
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    Jon
    I went for a PC215 but my engine was built for low speed torque
    If you go down the path of a high lift cam please consider the valve springs.
    5 years ago I put a lifted cam in the old Rangie that I bought from Suttons
    It went like the proverbial but within 2500 ks I broke valve springs be careful thats all

    Duane

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