LR specify ATF Dexron II or above. That's what I stick to. The more recent ones are recommended some Texaco-branded stuff that is not easily available at our place.
just had the gearbox rebuild so whats the best oil to run in it r380
LR specify ATF Dexron II or above. That's what I stick to. The more recent ones are recommended some Texaco-branded stuff that is not easily available at our place.
Johannes
There are people who spend all weekend cleaning the car.
And there are people who drive Discovery.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Some links here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/7...tml#post898047
I went from Castrol Transmax M (which we use at work) but had shift problems going from 1st into 2nd for the first few shifts especially in winter (Brisvegas style).Then I tried Transmax Z (fully Synthetic, and dyed green, which we also use at work) which although lower viscosity only made a marginal improvement. Concern for my Synchros and not really wanting to pull things to bits prompted me to go against my usual suspicion of wonder products in a tin and used one of Nulon's additives (with the Transmax Z)
This was acceptable but not if the Landy sat around for more than a week, when it would be back to it's old tricks. I ended up using Castrol Syntrans which is meant for Manual transmissions where ATF is recommended by the Manufacturer, Problem solved.
Interestingly I found out why the Nulon / Z combination deteriorated because the Nulon rapidly separates and sinks to the bottom of the box, but obviously soon gets stirred up again when you start driving but not before it affected the all important first shifts.
Just to confuse things somewhat Syntrans used to be similar in colour to engine oil and therefore easier to identify but now some genius has decided that it should by dyed red!
Sorry about the length of this, hope it helps
Syntrans M is miles too thick for the R380, it's viscosity is bang on the minimum for a 75W-110, and much heavier than most 75W-90 manual trans fluids.
Syntrans 75W-85 (11.9cSt @ 100*) is the one to get IMO, or maybe one of the newly released Syntrans Max 75W-80 (9.1 cSt @ 100*) or Syntrans B (which is an ATF viscosity at 8.8cSt @ 100*)
Are you sure about the dye change ? Syntrax (75W-90 transaxle/gearbox fluid) is dyed red. It's around 14cSt or so @ 100* Haven't seen Syntrans Max or B yet.
ATF hasn't been specced since '97 or so when the MTF94 spec came in, eg Defenders from WA131138 on used MTF94.
Land Rover released a TSB in 2000 saying that the MTF94 spec superceded ATF on all R380's.
MTF94 is now nigh impossible to get in Oz, and there are a number of compatible 75W-80/85 manual transmission oils available now.CAUSE:
At the following VINs, the original oil fill specification for the R380 gearbox was
changed to Texaco MTF94 high performance oil:
Range Rover - WA 384300
Discovery - WA 752315
Defender - WA 131138
New Discovery - All vehicles
The Freelander PG1 gearbox has used the new oil since introduction of the model.
ACTION:
MTF94 will be recognised by its orange/honey colour as opposed to the red
Dexron II oil previously used, and is now available from Land Rover Parts.
It is now the only oil which should be used for topping up and complete fill on
R380/PG1 gearbox applications.
That was Transmax M which is ATF.
I have a bottle of Syntrans 75W90 'Manual' in front of me and it's definetly Red. As I said it works well for me but I'd be interested if the newer versions are better.
What do you use in your transfer case?
Cheers.
Pete.
Hi Rick,
Have I been doing something wrong? Ive been using ordinary old Castrol VMX 80 (75W80??) in my R380 for the last couple of 40-ish K km changes. The cold shifting is quite OK (except for the very first 1 - 2 change on really cold Tassie mornings - and then I just double de-clutch and it slides in fine) and the amount of 'fluff' on the magnet has not been anything out of the ordinary.
Am I living on borrowed time by not using a mega-buck synthetic?
I've always used pretty ordinary mineral oils (mosty Castrol) but been particular to change them at least at the recommended intervals, often a bit sooner, especially if I've been 'playing' in axle-deep or deeper water.
Ian
Ian &
Leo - SIII 109/GMH3.3
Daphne I - '97 Disco 300Tdi Manual
Daphne II - '03 Disco Td5 Auto
That sounds like an interesting mix!
It's also interesting to note that most manufacturer's recommendations are only valid up to 30 degrees ambient temperature and "if arduous conditions are likely to be encountered, then higher specifications are called for" This of course means towing (even on road) and (shock horror) going off road! So going up to say LSX 90 in conventional diffs and the like is the order of the day.
Cheers.
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