Thread: Series 3, 2.6L 6 cyl stalling and won't start. Help!

A faulty coil will cause these symptoms. I had an Alfa that did this when it got hot.

Check the spark on one of the spark plugs or put the multimeter on the out put side of the coil.

With electronic ignition, the multimeter may not help for checking the ignition - there are various types. But check the spark either by pulling a plug or by using another plug on a lead pulled off.


The symptoms suggest either an ignition problem or a mixture problem. Does pulling the choke out get it started? Sometimes works. I am not up on the carburetter in them, but a few basic checks:-

The pump should slow and stop clicking after a few seconds from switching on. If it does not, it is either not pumping fuel (air leak or blockage or dirt under a valve) or the needle valve is not stopping the fuel and it is flooding. Either will prevent starting, but I am inclined to suspect flooding since it works when cold and tends to stop when idling and won't start. Make sure the cold start (choke) linkage is working correctly.

Another possibility is a vacuum leak in the manifold or the vacuum piping (brake booster and vacuum advance), very slight chance stuck intake valve.

Hope this helps,

John

choke doesn't seem to make a difference, and i've always been dubious of the coil's health.

Maybe time to get one to match the electronic ignition

Choke linkage could be an issue, but it has been working fine. I might check that it's all where it should be. the pump does slow, but never stops. Never did on either motor though (Holden or this one). Maybe a leak somewhere?? I've never checked the levels in this carby, I'm a bit afraid of carburettors reall, so I tend to try and leave them alone. I have a spare that I should have a look over for practice!

A vacume leak is a very real posibility as there is some extra pipes etc there with not so good connections or pipes. I'll look over that as well, thanks John!

So, coil and carby checks to do tonight.

The carburetter on it is probably a Zenith-Stromberg constant velocity type. These have a diaphragm in them that will cause this sort of problem if it is punctured. It is possible it is an SU, which uses a piston instead of a diaphragm. In either type if the bit that is meant to raise and lower with vacuum does not move freely, you can expect these problems.

There is probably a fuel filter in the pump as well. If the pump slows right down, it is probably pumping OK, but is either leaking fuel back past a valve (in which case it is not a problem) or the needle valve in the carburetter is leaking - which is a problem, as it will give an excessively rich mixture and it will not start when hot, even if the leak is only slight.

John

G'day Phoenix

If you still have the original double ended fuel pump as fitted to your S3 then the RPS it your friend to find where the filters are in it also is there any oil in the dash pot,(the round plastic knob thingo on the carb) thin oil, 1/2 inch below thread or just swap to a spare coil, the one from the Blood box will do, and see if there is any improvement


cheers

If your ignition system still utilises a condenser (small silver can with a single wire on side of Dizzy) then they break down when warm if they are on their way out and cause exactly the symptoms you describe.

Hope this helps,

Jon

if its carby and its flooding.......then holding the loud pedal flat to the floor
and cranking will get it started again.......

well, it's not starting at all now

I got my old man to tow me hime last night so I can have a look at it tonight and last night. Worst case I have an RDO friday and I can take it to the mechanic.

So, what i've checked. Yes, it's a zenith stromberg carby. I've got a spare here to ahev a look at, and then see if the one on the car is healthy (Diaphram) as well as checking it's layout.

Yes, the pump has a filter,. but that was ok when I checked it after installing the motor, but I can check again tonight as well as the fuel filter on the side of the engine.

Spark seems pretty weak to me ( the one on the holden with a blue ignition was bloody strong). So coil could be the problem. I hadnt thought of nicking the bloodbox one. I tested it by putting a spare plug on the lead to 2 and seeing how she sparked when held against the block. even in the dark it looked weak.

no condenser, the electronic ignition system removes that. I might look at getting a coil to match the ignition to get a better spark anyway. then I can ditch the ballast resistor.

Pedal flat to the floor didn't help, more and more looking like the coil.

Other things I ckecked, no oil in the water, or water in the oil. A bit of mayo in the breather lines, but we've had a lot of rain and frost of late, so that could be enviromental. None visible on the valve etc I could see under the top cover (looking through where the breater goes with a torch).

Yes, oil in the carby.

spark plug that I pulled looked normall black, but on top a bit of white crusty stuff. anybody got that pic of what different spark plug appearances mean?