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Thread: Who has had a dyno run on their LR?

  1. #41
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    Here is my 94 D1 3.9 auto with original internals, injectors, ignition etc & abt 170K on the clock. Stock gearing with 245/75/16's.

    Only power mods are a Mark Adams chip, performance exhaust (extractors and 2 1/2" single pipe) and a K&N filter (MAF regularly cleaned). Both dyno runs had these all in place. The second dyno run is following a proper tune (dizzy recalibrate), new plugs, injector and airways clean.

    My numbers (inc peak power of 85Kw) seem compare very favourably to 4.6's. There has been a slight hesitation around 50 km uphill which I have put down to a a struggling original fuel pump and or regulator.

    I am very happy with this engine and it is only when towing that I think about stroking in another litre and adding a torquey cam.
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  2. #42
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    Keep us posted Ron.

    Seems to me results are to be expected. A 3.5 cam in a 4.6 will produce better torque at low rpm, at the expense of the top end. You'll never win a drag race, you don't have as much grunt in the top half of the rev range. But it will be fabulous I should think when towing, or off-road. Around town it'll be very lazy, easy to drive.

    Check with Ward, but on the dyno I don't think it matters what gear it's in. Or diff ratio, gear ratios or tyre diameter. The dyno measures the load at any given drum rpm, and plots that against engine rpm. That is, as an example, if you get really high load figures in 1st gear, the software will multiply the (low) drum rpm to compensate.

    Biggest variables are humidity & air temp as mentioned.

    Regards
    Max P

  3. #43
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    My 93 RRC with a 4.6 I built. Has raised comp ratio. Aprox 10:1, Heatseeker stage 3 cam, Wolf Ver4.72 ECU, sequencial injection and ignition (coil packs) Pacemaker headers and redback 2.5" exhaust system.Injectors are Bosch 39lbs EV6 multi orrifice style, soon to be changed to 19lb EV6's to try and improve the fuel economy more. Currently averages 16ltrs/100 around town and down to 14 on the highway at 110kph. I do the tuning myself.

    This dyno run was done in 3rd gear with the tires at 42 psi(hence the high ramp up after 2400 rpm to prevent the trans kicking down). The dyno is on older Bosch 4 wheel dyno but the results where within 10% after running the car on a dyno dynamics 4wheel dyno at x-speed here in perth.

    Im running pretty agressive timing, with knock sensor controlled auto ignition retard, and eng temp/air temp based ignition retards. Max advance is aprox 38deg.


    I suppose this and the higher comp ration would account for some of the extra horse power over some of the other cars show but 40+ kilowatts is alot

    Any other stand alone ecu equipped cars got results similar to this?

    cheers
    Luke
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  4. #44
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    Tusker wrote,..
    A 3.5 cam in a 4.6 will produce better torque at low rpm, at the expense of the top end
    I could well be wrong here, but it is my understanding that the timing cover as fitted to the 4.6 is too short to accept a camshaft for an engine which is designed to run with a distributor.

    So unless a different timing cover were to be used and of course the modifications necessary to then either run the engine with a distributor or not as the case may be,...then using a 3.5 camshaft in a 4.6 is not an option.

    Ron.

  5. #45
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    Bruce Davis machines off the gear and nose of the 3.5 cam to fit the 4.6 engine. I saw them doing it.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  6. #46
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    here's a D2 Td5 one on GC dyno for something different
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    Always looking for creative new ways to get bogged... :whistling:

    76 RR...sold coz fuel was expensive at 70c/l :eek:
    93 200 Tdi Disco...old faithful...sold to make way for...
    99 Td5 Disco ACE...nice drive...hopefully reliable...

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post


    Does anyone know the meaning of the labels BP, RR, and TN at the bottom of the graph?

    I assume:

    RH= Relative Humidity
    AT= Air Temp
    IT= Inlet Temp
    I forgot about this thread, good thing it was rehashed.
    Just to elaborate on the bottom parameters, I did some more research and detail the info below.

    The atmospheric correction screen displays the following;
    Barometric Pressure - BP
    Relative Humidity - RH
    Ambient Temp - AT
    Inlet Air Temp - IT
    Mechanical Efficiency - RR ???
    Resultant Correction Factor - TN ???

    Not sure why it seems that the RR & TN are all identical on coopers dyno sheets. Unless they are recording something different???

    Still learning as I go
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

  8. #48
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    Here's mine.

    Had this done when the Haltech Interceptor chip was installed.

    Did the 0-80 test this afternoon and about 8.5 seconds.

    Of course, it's never enough is it

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    Last edited by p38arover; 12th February 2011 at 08:22 PM.

  9. #49
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    Does this mean that I am likely to experience some reliability issue when I put this engine in my RRC ITs only running straight LPG !!

  10. #50
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    400HPONGAS wrote,...
    Does this mean that I am likely to experience some reliability issue when I put this engine in my RRC ITs only running straight LPG !!
    Carl Hansen's Rover V8 in his TVR Tuscan produces 553kW and delivers 709Nm of torque, but in a RRC what good would it be?

    Ron.

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