unless you have a bindy front diff or a broken axle... then it wont tell you anything... but thats unusual.
The way I tell on my County is to jack one wheel off the ground and put the vehicle in gear. No need to drive it.
If diff lock is not engaged you can spin the wheel by hand.
If it is engaged it won't turn.
Chris
unless you have a bindy front diff or a broken axle... then it wont tell you anything... but thats unusual.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
OK, So I have the front wheel drivers side off the ground.
With main gearbox in gear the wheel won't spin, no matter what position the diff lock selector is in.
Based on above advice that would mean the CDL lock is in all the time??, but I know it's not as I'm getting no windup....
If I put the main gearbox in nuetral the wheel spins freely, again no matter what position the diff lock selector is in.
Any thoughts please?
Removed rubber boot and found that selector mechanism was being fouled by some high density rubber which had been put in when engine conversion was done.Ripped that out...
So now, with engine off:
With main gearbox in neutral
-diff lock lever on= elevated front wheel won't turn
-diff lock lever off=elevated front wheel turns freely
If the main box is in gear the elevated wheel won't turn no matter what position the diff lock selector lever is in.
I'm about to head down the beach for a test/play but....
What's the verdict, is that diff lock now in ????
diff lock is now working
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks Dave,
Im back from the beach(no test there, easy going...the EB's went down nicely I must say...wifey drove home) but I remain unconvinced cdl is working.
There is no diff windup on hard surface(I know what this feels like and it's not happening
The dash light re cdl is not coming on.
I'll try jacking up the entire front end next weekend and do the propshaft exercise as suggested, and see how that goes.
I don't think it matters but in case it does my 110 has
-detroit locker in rear
-6.5 chevy diesel in front
-abs/tc not working(not a worry, a trutrac going in front end shortly and that along with rear locker will do me)
-1/1 ratio tfr box
Any comments, suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I've now got the back axle on stands with both rear wheels clear of the ground.
Diff lock out, motor running in gear= rear wheels spinning
Diff lock in, motor running in gear = rear wheels spinning, no drive at front.
So I have no drive to the front with diff lock in.
Bit of a grating noise as I try to engage cdl but it's not going in.
What would be best thing to look at first??
Me again, apologies for running my own question and answer session here but I have found the problem!
Underneath the rubber boot that covers the cdl selector lever is a steel "gasket"(can't think of a better way to describe it) that bolts down onto the top of the tfr case.
The cdl selector lever passes through the square hole on this "gasket" and into the tfr box.
PROBLEM was that the square hole in the "gasket" was much smaller than the hole in the tfr box it bolts down on and was preventing the tfr lever from travelling left and right to the extent it needed to in order to activate cdl.
Thanks all for your help!!
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