When bought my disco, it came with an (home made) endless air setup. Basically a Filter into the compressor, then into a tank (4 or 5L) under the bullbar and into a valve block comprising of a gauge, an air outlet and relief valve, then into another valve block comprising of 2 air locker solenoids and a 140psi pressure switch. If you are able to swallow all that then I will ask a question..

Upon purchase, the old owner informed me that the compressor had seized, but he had a spare one in the back for me to fit up. After removing it, I found one cylinder had seized. After using the search button, I found how to modify the compressor to pump air (block off an oil port, and fill it with grease). Now after reassembly, I have discovered that if I blow into the outlet, there is very little restriction and the air comes straight out the inlet.

Question 1: Will the reed valves on the compressor seal at low pressure or are both the valve plates I have used stuffed??

Question 2: The ARB air lockers are supposed to run at about 100psi but the system is set at 140psi. Would the general consensus be to put a 100psi pressure switch in or run the airlockers through a regulator? (I don't fancy blowing out seals)

Question 3: Are in line oilers and separator just 'nice to have things' or a requirement.


I know many of you will guide me back to the search button however I have found many things contradictory particularly when I enter the world of google search so I have asked you lot directly.

Many thanks in advance

Ben

PS, just for interests sake, the system is on a 200Tdi disco and the compressor is mounted next to the aircon compressor

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Cheers,

Ben

cheers phil

yes the reed valves should seal at low pressure, if they dont, before you strip it down turn the unit upside down immerse it in diesel and turn the compressor by hand a few times leave it to sit overnight and go it again in the morning. Fit a decent check valve between the tank and the compressor as reed valves are not brilliant at sealing up while they arent actively working.

Id be fitting a regulator the bigger head of pressure will make blowing up tyres faster and work rattle guns for removing wheel nuts harder.


for a york recipricating style compressor an oiler of some description is optional for all other types its mandatory.

threres 4 main different styles of setup (each with minor variations you can choose from.

1. air inlet drawn from the crankcase vent, the misted oil from the engine does the lubing
2. a normal air tool in line oiler fitted to the inlet of the compressor
3. spraying some inox or similar into the inlet every now and then
4. fitting a ADV to the bottom of the reciver tank and venting it back to the inlet.

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

I have a oil drain on the tank and find that is enough.
My system runs 140 psi and runs a cheap 30 dollar air pressure reg for spray painting which knocks down the pressure for the air locker to 90 psi.
the whole system works very well .
I use a older type piston reciprocating A/C compressor without any oiling other than a top up in the sump every time I change the vehicles engine oil.
The system has been running for years now and is used around the farm for spray painting and running rattle guns etc too.
DSCF0672.jpg picture by 101Ron - Photobucket

air compressor where 24v alt used to be picture by 101Ron - Photobucket
12 lt air tank in nose with outlet picture by 101Ron - Photobucket
The air tank is 12 litres.

Sorry the compressor is a 7 cyl sanden unit. The more I think about this setup the less I like it.

Just my luck that the pressure switch is on the wrong valve block. I'll have to move it before I can run a regulator.

Thanks for your help

Ben

__________________
Cheers,

Ben

My system also has a check valve between the air compressor and the tank to stop any leak back though the compressor .
It will hold its pressure for days.
Note the air pressure reg also removes any water in the air for the locker and that must be a good thing.
Use a high temp Nylon tube from the compressor or the heat will make the hose blow apart from the fittings.

I finnal got around to checking the valve plate again. It still leaks back at low pressure but there is some restriction. I sealed the valve plate and the cover with some flange sealant to be sure, and tested it.

I found an old 12" 1/2" drive extension and machined the end off it so it fits in the battery drill. I ran the compressor off the 19mm nut in the middle of the compressor. All I can say is our new Milwaukee battery drill would be tough enough to turn over the 200Tdi if it got a shot.

I ran it up, and apart from spitting out a lot of grease (I might have over filled it) it runs great.

As far as the rest of the setup goes, the pressure switch will be changed for a 100psi switch and ill leave it like that for a while.

Thanks for your help

Ben

__________________
Cheers,

Ben