I would run a MEC 723 instead, another transformer coil but slightly higher resistance. I believe there is a coil list further down this thread.
|The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to bee utey For This Useful Post:|
milld (15th November 2011)
Ok this morning I've taken all the other wires off and tested the coil and it was intermitantly sparking from safety pin the the pole and with a sparkplug on the high volatge lead. Tested with multimeter and while it had looked ok previously, readings were a bit unstable.
Re-did the connectors on the pre-existing wires (White-Green and White-Black) and again tightened things up, all the connections at dizzy, amp and coil. Wired: positive on coil to existing white-green, capacitor suppressor, and amp to pin 15 wires; negative on coil to existing white-black and amp to pin 7 wires.
Car starts, finally! Sounds like crap, knocking coming from the plenum, but I'll try adjusting idle timing now to improve it.
Thanks to all, especially Bee Utey and superquag - really appreciate the help. I'll let you know how it runs once it sounds a bit better...
just got back yesterday from holiday, drove about 400ks with it running really well. I need to get the timing light out to check what the timing was eventually set at to get smooth power throughout the range and good pickup (started at 9BTDC by the gun and then adjusted slightly each drive til I hit a sweet spot).
I still need to get the diaphram on the Vac Advance fixed to improve the mileage (got 19l/100km - some freeway, some city, lots of hills, mostly fully packed car).
The adjustments to get the TPS and MAF within the ranges discussed on the board I felt made a big difference to power too - especially after I worked out the loose connection to the #1 fuel injector! The improvement seemed to be smoothness of power delivery as much as anything, though it was hard to tell as I couldn't get an A-B comparison due to the intermittent contact that injector was getting (fixed using some silicone to hold the plug in tighter).
My remaining issues are that I still have a very slight drop/dip in the idle every three or four seconds.
Also the exhaust smell seems to indicate it's running rich (which I had initially put down to rusty muffler which has since been replaced/upgraded) so I'll probably look at replacing the fuel injectors with yellowtops if I can find some within budget. Any suggestions of suppliers would be appreciated too as I haven't found any at the prices others seemed to have done!
progress post the Bosch coil and amplifier
Thanks to all for assistance.
I have completed to 30,000km since the coil change.
Typical improvement in LPG use is in the order of 11%-15%.
However, now I am thinking the next step is to do the oxygen sensor.
While criusing the hwy the car seems to jump while coasting. Every time I service the car or fiddle with the timing the economy moves from about 4.4km/L through to 5.2km/L, then drops back.
Any hints guys?
Jumpy running on coast could be either 1. too much advance, especially with vacuum connected, or 2. gas running lean due to either incorrect off-idle settings or air pressure due to forward vehicle movement overwhelming the gas system vacuum signal from the mixer. Do you have a snorkel fitted?
Remind me again of your system type, it's been a while.
progress post Bosch upgrade
I am running a Romano vapour injection.
Vacuum advance is connected and timing set about 5-6 degrees.
For some time the actual timing has been a concern. Occaisionaly when heading up an incline above 2,000rpm the engine will miss a beat.
After much thought I was heading toward a rich mixture problem. However, I have noted on petrol the RPM gauge will occaisionaly jump about 500rpm during coasting.
Also at gas idle I have one cyclinder continualy puffing at the exhaust. On petrol there is no problem. In the past I have removed and cleaned all the gas injectors...not that problem.
every time I redo the timing the puffing stops for a week and then returns.
Going for mixture, I looking for Mapping software for the Romano and following that with the landy fuel mapping and back again.
then thought to cheat by adding an oxygen sensor to the system and hope for auto tuning. However, remain confused as this only controls over fueling when ballanced against the existing Map. Therefore, mapping comes to mind again.
Is your tacho (=rpm gauge) the stock LR item or an aftermarket? Stock runs off the alternator. Make sure the pickup-to-Bosch-amp wires are away from both the alternator and the ignition leads. I tie the wires to the top radiator hose, seems to work best. Interference will cause random signals which can also affect the gas injection as it has a RPM input from the coil.
One cylinder misfiring indicates a weak cylinder, as LPG requires higher voltage than petrol to fire. If you can identify which cylinder is misfiring (disconnect one gas injector at a time), perhaps change that plug. Gap should be 0.7-0.8mm for gas plugs. Also try swapping gas injector plugs around, see if the misfire follows the wiring or the cylinder.
The Tacho is stock.. The whole car is except for the bisch upgrade and the Romano system.
I'll do the wire check.
I raise another issue in regards to alternator.
Tested the unit the other day and was charging at 13.8v. I undertsand they typicaly charge at 13.4v??
As a result the dashboard lights and headlights canbe seem rythnmicly going bright and dull.
Is this likely to play merry with the ECU and so on/
Alternators charge voltage varies with temperature, typically 13.5 (hot) to 14.5V (cold), although pulsating lights would indicate a faulty regulator. This may affect the injection, I don't think they like too much variation.
|Search AULRO.com ONLY! ||Search All the Web! |