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Thread: Another reason for fitting a D2 with a CDL kit..

  1. #1
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    Another reason for fitting a D2 with a CDL kit..

    Pulled a 2000 D2 LT230 to bits to replace intermediate shaft O rings and all other seals as it was hemmorraging oil everywhere, (240K old) and discovered the abundance of bronze centre differential thrust washer shavings in the oil and scattered throughout the box. Pulled the centre diff apart to find none remaining and the pinion gears chewed up to 1.5mm into the steel casing.

    This vehicle has seen a fair bit of off road work with the original owner, but current owner is towing a caravan etc, mostly on road.

    Oil leak has become steadily worse so that is why it is addressed now before an upcoming towing trip to the mainland etc.

    Cheapest and best fix was the fitting of a late D1 LT230, 120k old, fitting the D2 front and rear output housings to it. Internals on late D1 are the same and this one was as new and is way cheaper than a designated D2 TC, just a simple housing swap and away you go.

    This lends more weight to the fitting of CDL kits to applicable D2's, the poor old centre diffs get a real work out with Traction control and no centre lock engaged.

    So my advice is to fit a CDL kit if you use your D2 off road a lot.


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #2
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    Hi Justin
    Mine is also up for transmission oil leak fixes when I sort a new crutch.246000k at the moment.
    Hope mine isnt a basketcase too!!!
    Andrew
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Hi Justin
    Mine is also up for transmission oil leak fixes when I sort a new crutch.246000k at the moment.
    Hope mine isnt a basketcase too!!!
    Andrew
    Errr, 246K is about exactly what this one has done
    I thought you had a CDL kit in yours?

    I would be dismantling the centre diff and having a squiz Andy. I replace these thrust washers everytime I do the intermediate shaft oil leaks etc as it is a relatively quick excercise. And cheap at around $3 per thrust washer.

    This one however was by far the worst I have seen. I forgot to mention the price of a new centre diff assembly, about $1800

    Thats why I settled for a 1998 D1 LT230Q with low K's and an easy life. The vehicle it came out of had not one oil leak and still had the black sound proofing etc under it ex factory. Bitumen use only!! It was an uninsured roll over, what a waste

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
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    I do have a CDL Justin.
    For the 50000ks or so that Ive abused it
    LOTS of big hwy miles in her past,from Broome most of the servicing done in Perth.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  5. #5
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    I just had mine done, 230,000ks, the interesting thing with my TC was way back at 120,000ks when I fitted my D2a CDL and replacing the AMV electric CDL which died and seized half on my new D2a CDL would not lock in, apon investigation it was found that my bronze centre differential thrust washers were chewed up and spread throughout the TC, which meant an early overhaul.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

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  6. #6
    DaveF Guest
    Reason for fitting/actuating a CDL in a D2 #42 = Being able to still drive the car when your front shaft is being rebuilt for the second time in 18 months.

    Cheers
    David

  7. #7
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    Justin, i always thought late d1 and d2 transfers were the same bar the front flange?

    Andy

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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    Justin, i always thought late d1 and d2 transfers were the same bar the front flange?

    Andy
    Andy, Not quite. The D2 has a low range switch on the front output housing to tell the engine ECU and the HDC that the TC is in Low range, and the rear output housing is blanked off for the speedo drive, as the D2 takes its speed sense through the ABS/SLABS ECU.

    I COULD have left the rear output housing on, but didn't want to have a redundant speed transducer etc just sitting there...As it was I left the temp switch in place for possible connection later on, as the TC came from a V8.

    Drove it today and it is VERY tight and quiet, but just as importantly it doesn't leak.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Andy, Not quite. The D2 has a low range switch on the front output housing to tell the engine ECU and the HDC that the TC is in Low range, and the rear output housing is blanked off for the speedo drive, as the D2 takes its speed sense through the ABS/SLABS ECU. JC
    Justin, Thanks for that, like Andy I thought the only significant difference was the front flange. I have a late D1 TC that I extracted from a stolen/burnt-out 97 V8 Disco. (The TC and auto trans were the only useful bits left on it !) I was eventually going to refurbish it with a D2 front output flange and new seals etc to fit in place of my non CDL TC in my 2002 TD5.

    Can the D2 low range switch be fitted to the D1 front output housing?
    The D1 TC has a 36D prefix and G suffix. It also has "A9" stamped above the serial number - is that an indication of a rebuild?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazk View Post
    Justin, Thanks for that, like Andy I thought the only significant difference was the front flange. I have a late D1 TC that I extracted from a stolen/burnt-out 97 V8 Disco. (The TC and auto trans were the only useful bits left on it !) I was eventually going to refurbish it with a D2 front output flange and new seals etc to fit in place of my non CDL TC in my 2002 TD5.

    Can the D2 low range switch be fitted to the D1 front output housing?
    The D1 TC has a 36D prefix and G suffix. It also has "A9" stamped above the serial number - is that an indication of a rebuild?
    Gary, yes you can drill and tap the housing for the switch if you like, OR a simple dash mounted switch will suffice. The wiring is easy to get to and all it is there for is to reduce throttle response in low range to avoid jerkiness and the allow HDC to be engaged. I would rather not have to drill the case personally. A9 could well be a rebuilders mark, Eg 'Andrew, 2009' .

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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