Thread: Changing trailer wheels/stud pattern

You can get the hubs from any trailer supply place although they may have to order them in. Cost will be the hubs plus wheels, take about ten minutes to change each hub on average. You need to know what size bearings the existing hubs have, and should probably consider new bearings.

I have no direct experience of this, but I understand that the hubs you get will have American (UNF) stud sizes and threads, these can be be replaced with Landrover studs and nuts so you won't have to carry a different sized wheel spanner, but this will be extra cost and work.

I suggest talking to a trailer supply place for costs.

John

Do a search or look back in trailers.
Regards Philip A

I bought a camper trailer and when I got it , it had 6 stud hubs on it



Well after a couple of years I have now changed it to land rover stud pattern. But I found a land rover stud pattern axle on eBay so I bought it and change over just the hubs on mine. btw also have given it a respray over the years too




So now I run my trailer with a set of steels I had lying around . They are also the same tyre size as both my defenders ( 235,85. R16.)

But al ko. http://www.alko.com.au/. Have all the bits you need for a new hub with the land rover stud pattern. They also do wheel nuts and stud. So pretty handy but can cost a bit . Have a look at the web site and you can see All the different types of ones they do for a land rover


Ali

i it just hubs, or is it brakes? Last time i bought land rover hubs they were about $90, brakes are around $350 IIRC.

More important Q is which Land Rover wheels are you planning for?

Firstly - Check the offset of current and future wheels, they have to similar or you will need a different length axle!

D1 / Defender / early LR – Hub is a catalogue item at most component suppliers. It is a drum brake hub due to the stud spacing so they are more expensive than the standard lazy hub, if you have brakes make sure the LR drum will fit your current backing plate. Alloys will need metric studs and may have issue with centre hole on some models

D2 – either commodore hubs and change the studs from ½” to M14 (they punch straight in). OR have custom blanks drilled. Can use 9/16 trailer studs for steel wheels. Limited to slimline bearings if wanting to use alloys and the centre hole of the wheel has to be machined out to fit over the bearings so you can no longer use that wheel on the car – defeats the purpose of exercise.

At first glance D3/4, RRS, L322 would have the same issue as D2 alloys.

the legalities of an adaptor have stopped me from using a pair on my d1 size hubs so that i can fit d2 alloys to match the current tow vehicle. such a shame as i have dreams of getting a second vehicle soonish and have defender ideas , but until then would like to have matching wheels for the d2.

Thanks for all the info guys, its given me some things to think about.

For the record I have a 2008 Defender with Boost alloys, but I have an old set of steelies lying around.

I will take it down to the trailer shop and see what they reckon.

Craig

Originally Posted by harlie

More important Q is which Land Rover wheels are you planning for?

Firstly - Check the offset of current and future wheels, they have to similar or you will need a different length axle!

D1 / Defender / early LR – Hub is a catalogue item at most component suppliers. It is a drum brake hub due to the stud spacing so they are more expensive than the standard lazy hub, if you have brakes make sure the LR drum will fit your current backing plate. Alloys will need metric studs and may have issue with centre hole on some models

D2 – either commodore hubs and change the studs from ½” to M14 (they punch straight in). OR have custom blanks drilled. Can use 9/16 trailer studs for steel wheels. Limited to slimline bearings if wanting to use alloys and the centre hole of the wheel has to be machined out to fit over the bearings so you can no longer use that wheel on the car – defeats the purpose of exercise.

At first glance D3/4, RRS, L322 would have the same issue as D2 alloys.

I have Commodore hubs on my trailer with the M14 studs for D2 alloys.

I punched the Commodore 1/2" studs out, drilled the holes out to suit the M14 studs and have now been running them for 3yrs.

If running alloys, you'll need to shorten the wheel nuts by about 4mm, as the studs a a tad longer and the nuts will connect with the hub before connecting with the alloy wheel, I'd recommend you use steel rims for the trailer, One tonne trayback Commodore steelies will do the trick, that's assuming you are changing the trailer hubs to suit D2/3/4/RRS hubs Craig.

Baz.