Camper Safety Chains

**101RRS** · 5th January 2012, 09:08 AM

The Orac coupling on my van is a pita to use so I am changing to an Ozihitch. The old coupling was welded on and the new one is bolted. The safety chains are welded on under the chassis right where the front bolts will need to go for the Ozihitch so I am going to have to move the safety chains.

So the simple question is - when I weld the chains back onto the chassis, do I have to reweld them under the chassis rails or can I weld them on the sides of the chassis rails.

Thanks

Garry

**weeds** · 5th January 2012, 09:13 AM

i welded mine on the sides......i see plenty of trailers with it done this way so assumed its OK

**Blknight.aus** · 5th January 2012, 09:27 AM

I prefer to weld them to the leading edge of the A frame up on the side and under the coupling. Ive seen a case where the chains that were welded on the side and hanging down were ground off and the trailer went its own way dispite having the chains on.

having them up close to the articulation point also minimises the length of chain that you need so in the event of a disconnect you're less likely to damage things.

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 5th January 2012, 10:27 AM

Welding on the sides is O.K. , in fact if two chains they must be welded on the sides. The VSB-1 used to specify that the weld must be at least 50% of the link.

The rules also specify that the length of the chain should be short enough to prevent the "A" frame touching the ground in the case of disconnection.

While the rules allow for a single chain on trailers under 2500KG ATM*, IMHO this is not appropriate as it allows a disconnected trailer to swing wildly to the extent of the chain. Two chains (which have to cross sides when connected) will tend to cradle the coupling and stabilise the sway of the disconnected trailer.

* ATM Aggregate Trailer Mass, the mass of the trailer not including the mass transferred to the tow vehicle.

**mick88** · 5th January 2012, 05:24 PM

Weld them 2 (chains) around the outside and on the inside and make sure that it is high tensile chain. There is a lot depending on them if the some part of the coupling lets go.

Cheers, Mick.

**101RRS** · 5th January 2012, 06:22 PM

Thanks for all the responses but in the end I was able to put short bolts in to hold on the coupling without bolting right through the chassis so did not have to remove the chains.

Just hope the Ozi Hitch is better to connect than the Orac.

Cheers

Garry

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 5th January 2012, 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by mick88

... and make sure that it is high tensile chain. ....

Que?

Weld hi-tensile??

You never weld rated chain!

**Blknight.aus** · 5th January 2012, 07:09 PM

sure you do, it just becomes unrated till its proof loaded again.

**3 Lions** · 1st February 2012, 11:26 PM

Originally Posted by garrycol

Thanks for all the responses but in the end I was able to put short bolts in to hold on the coupling without bolting right through the chassis so did not have to remove the chains.

Just hope the Ozi Hitch is better to connect than the Orac.

Cheers

Garry

Garry, I have just got a Camper Trailer with the OzHitch. My verdict....Brilliant!!

I do not think you will be disappointed, It is so simple to use, I love it!!

Have a look at the OzHitch website if you have not already.

I am not connected with OzHitch in any way.

Col.

**101RRS** · 2nd February 2012, 09:22 AM

I have used the Ozhitch quite a bit now and certainly is a 1000% better than a Treg or the Orac I had before.

I doesn't quite work as well as in their videos - alignment is still important but not as important as other hitches - still need the mash hammer to put the pin in and to remove it but are gentle taps rather than full on bashes. The rubber bush that the pin goes through protrudes outside the metal housing and is what guides the trailer part down onto the bar - it is already being chewed a bit with the use it has got to date (mainly caused by the rough casting - Ozhitch do need to look at their QC as I had a few issues getting things to fit - eg housing to the toe bar tongue and the handbrake mount stops the coupling twisting because the handbrake housing stops the bit nut from turning - angle grinder fixed these but it should not be needed.

When I get my reversing camera in - initial lining up should not be an issue.

But yes it is a great product but on reflection I think a Hyland would be better still.

Garry

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