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I don't think it is just share house days and a van, its also when you have a big trailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by iain reed
You would have enjoyed doing the move, a couple of three pedestal bases for Zeiss 35/70mm projector lamp houses, good I didn't have to move the Super Troopers as well!
cool have not seen those since the old days in the hordern
did you need a crane to move them ?
No I/we didn't need to move the Troopers, just the projector pedestals with cast iron bases and platforms, and yes the "crane" on the trailer was used.Quote:
Originally Posted by iain reed
Thanks for this thread Gary.
Great photo's of the 101's at play. Ron's fording the river sounded great.
It inspired me to do something. I put a new brake fluid reservoir in 30-248. It then started raining, so I went home. (30-248 is stored in a friends mothers back yard.)
I noticed there was brake fluid around the front R/H hub, so I'll probably get some new brake cylinders from AJ's on my way back from Dandenong in a couple of weeks time.
I might do another job tomorrow.
Yeah - everyone had gone quiet so I thought I would post a thread basically about nothing in the hope that something would pop up.
So everyone - even if you haven't been doing much post up in new threads what you have been up to so we can all learn something - hey I learned that the water pump belt is 950mm long :).
I put my 12v alternator back in after a bearing failure and it don't work - might pull it back out tomorrow and go to work with the multimeter to try and find the fault. I have a bosch alternator off my spare series 1 engine and while the casing is different the armature looks to be almost the same - so I might try it in my casing before buying a new one - $120 on ebay (40A) or I could go a nice chrome GM (100A) one for about $150 ebay.
Garry
Garry
Why don't you take the OEM alternator to your local auto sparkie, there is likely to be a Bosch replacement for it. My Rangies all have Bosch 85 Amp fitted in place of the OEM Lucas 55Amps, the Bosch are far more reliable. In fact the alternators are the same arrangement as the 85 Amp I recently upgraded on my FFR - it's the standard unit for Holden Red/Black/Blue 6cyls. Paid about $240 trade price at my local Repco, so likely to be cheaper options.
I am going to standardise on the same 85 Amp Bosch on all my vehicles even if I have to modify the mounts to do it. A failed alternator on Good Friday was the reason that I missed the LR 60th, so now I have a reconditioned spare in the garage waiting for the next failure.
Diana
Hi Diana - this is not an OEM alternator - I have the main OEM 24v alternator that is huge and sits on top of the engine but the previous owner had also fitted a Bosch 12v 40Amp alternator (seems to be out of a Sigma GE) on a home made bracket on the bottom passenger side of the engine. This is to provide 12v power and charge the deep cycle battery. This is the one that failed. I was going to get another from the wreckers but a friendly Toyota driver said I might just get a dud - so I bought new bits - I think I wrecked the slip rings when I cleaned them up - again on advice of the toyota driver.
Anyway - I have subsequently gone to the wreckers and bought a newly reconditioned 60Amp Bosch out of a Cortina for $50 so it is going in. As a bonus it uses the same bearings and regulator/brushes that I already have so I will keep them as a spare.
One thing I want to do it rig up a charging light so I need to do some research to get a wiring diagram to see how to rig it up. As the same belt runs the water pump - a charging light coming on will let me know if a have a belt failure before the engine gets hot due to the water pump not turning.
Cheers
Garry
Rather than a charge light, why don't you put in a 12V voltmeter? Tells you more. The charge light only glows if there is a difference between the voltage of the battery and the voltage of the alternator/generator.
I have a voltmeter - if the alternator fails it then just reads the voltage from the battery and with a large deep cycle that is fully charged it takes a long time for the voltmeter to indicate the alternator has failed.
The voltmeter is good for measuring what is going on with the battery but in the short term not the alternator - an amp meter or a light is better - I have no room for another gauge at the moment so it needs to be a light. Later when I get working water temp/oil temp gauges in the standard land rover cluster I will have a spot for an amp gauge but a light still catches your attention quicker.
Garry
GarryQuote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
AFAIK all the internally regulated Bosch use the B+ post for the battery cables and the D+ is the terminal for the exciter (charge warning lamp) basically Ign+ to the lamp then from the other side of the lamp to the D+ on the alternator.
In your application I would use a 24V continuous duty (normally open) headlamp relay in the circuit. The coil (switch) side is (85 see below) to the IGN+ and (86) chassis ground on the 24V side and the contacts are (30) +ve from the secondary 12V battery and the (87) terminal mimics IGN+ on the secondary battery. This you can use (87) for a feed to the warning lamp circuit on your 12V Bosch alternator, a 12V radio etc and if you ever need to use a 12V coil/distributor again you have the IGN feed. (Without having to add a switch for the coil.)
Diana
i.e. NARVA 68040
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/normal-open-4-5
85 = 24V IGN+
86 = chassis ground
30 = +ve from secondary 12V Batt
87 = Secondary IGN - to 12V warning lamp \~/ to D+ on alternator.
87 = Spare 12V IGN+ radio etc (although you may wish the radio to work when the vehicle is in ACC+)