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Hey Ron
thoses airlockers seem to be the way to go! Let me know when you have a chat to that fella down the road. I havent had a chance yet to go and have a look at those vehicles yet. When I get my days of this weekI will pop out there and take some pics
cheers
Sean:cool:
I helped my fitter and turner friend move into his unit today. ( I supplied a forklift)
it should take afew days to get him settled.
He curently owes me.
He is keen to get involved and has seen was is needed first hand and he is only 100 mtrs away.
If he is as good as he said he is, it should save me time stuffing around on my own lathe and do a better job.
Plan to make the outer coller one piece instead of weld on as in the pics as to make the design stronger and keep the whole thing running true.
My thread cutting on lathes is OK for one unit.........but to do 8 or 9 the same , forget it.........better for my friend to do it.
My problem is the drive muff couplings on my stalwart are rusted into place both sides and I have little leverage or purchase to slide them back.
I will try again on the weekend when I can swear more at them.( swearing and working on stalwarts seem to go together)
The next problem is finding the correct size heavy wall pipe needed.
I am still toying at , how or what material to use for the selector fork arrangement and the ring for it to be fitted on the stalwarts original muff coupling.
I am worried about lubrication and the whole thing locking up and wanting to twist around.
I am currently thinking just brazing on a steel selector fork ring with the groove machined into the ring.
Brazing it in place will reduce the ring wanting to shrink the standard stalwart muff coupling and still allow it to slide on the drive shaft OK instead of welding.
The fork itself could be brass plate cut to shape........should have some sort of anti friction properties and is easy to do.
A small bearing or roller for the selector fork would be better.........still working if it could be done.
Plan to make five disconnects first up and first fit and try 2 on the rear drive wheels and see if it works and get the bugs out of it.
Then fit 2 for the front wheels.
That will leave one set coupling conversion components which can be copied here in NSW or QLD to make more.
The Ebay $30 dollar air cylinders means its not worth stuffing around trying to make them and the ones with a threaded nut arrangement will be adjustable though a piece of angled steel welded onto the stalwarts hull and that angled plate would only need to be welded on 2 sides which will help fitting inside the stalwarts limited space at the bottom of the hull.
The brass selector fork can have a enlongated hole/slot to allow further adjustment and postioning inside the hull for the air cylinder shaft.
Using the cabins air supply festo brand air soleniod valve can be used to activate the air cylinders...........I have not checked out the cost of these.
I am thinking like a LPG fitter which I am and using LP gas lock off soleniods which I can get easily, but they tend to be 12 volt and not 24 volt.
Pressure to the cylinders only needs to be low and it would make for better engaugement that way, so using a micro spray painting air pressure regulator which is adjustable and costs as little as $30 dollars.
I am guessing 30 psi is all that will be needed.
I know the gas lockoff and air regulator arrangement works as it is the system I am using for the air horn and ARB air locker on my 101 landrover.
The ARB diff locker air soleniod should be looked at to for price and advailibility in 24 volt.
This pic is of Grahams Stalwart in Vic.
It doesnt clearly show the dog clutch arrangement.
It does show a extra steel tube running across the chassis and the fact the transmission and motor was removed to work it out using truck brake air diaphrams to work the whole thing.
The plastic tank is a small non standard petrol tank as Grahams stalwart has 2 LP Gas tanks in its belly where the main petrol tank used to be.
I suspect the MK 1 stalwart of Grahams has a lot more room to fit things as well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/11/1350.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/11/1351.jpg
I am thinking a cylinder something like this.....just a cheaper ebay one
http://www.univer.com.au/cylframe.htm
Original Line® Cylinder - Bimba Manufacturing
Today was interesting and not planned in any way.
I tried to slide back those couplings on the bevel box drive shafts........without success.
I tried a bearing speader which wouldnt fit, hammers , bars and levers all without success.
I had the sh### with the thing.
I bolted the mirrors back on and decided I would take it for a run in the paddock next door just to blow the cob webs out of the motor.
In the paddock next door I found a track which lead to another track and so on.
After a while a land owner came over to bale me up.
it turned out we had common interest and the same friends.
I took him and his mate for a run in the stalwart.
He ended up giving me permission to go though his land when ever I want and drive though his drive way past his house to access another larger motor bike riding area on private land.
Whisle checking out this larger area with the stalwart I bumped into some mates from the local 4WD club letting their kids ride mini bikes.
I ended up having alot of fun...........making up for some of the blood sweat and tears.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/11/1209.jpg
I have some pics and vid to come.