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Thread: The Ultimate FC

  1. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    The main thing I have noticed with the auto locking diff is you must drive the vehicle smoothly around sharp corners.......... ie round abouts and avoid changing gear in a round abouts.
    The Old B81 Rolls digs down deep enough to do larger round abouts in top gear anyhow.
    The auto locking diff is one of the Stalwarts greatest assets off road and makes the vehicle far superior to its amoured cusins.
    I know on my 101 Landrover with a auto locking diff, the diff will act a little bit like a anti lock system..
    I do not have enough time behind the wheel of the Stalwart to know if it is the same story.
    the guy I bought the stolly from said the same thing about corners and changing gear! Looking forward to trying to start the B81 engine for the first time, once oils, filters etc have been changed. im hoping the points are in good enough condition for a start at least, dont fancy doing them as a first job, all sounds a bit fiddly!. Once i know the engine runs, I will get the electronic ignition and do the mods you have carried out.

  2. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    On the early mark 1 all the hubs and front/rear bevel boxes are separate units oil wise and have small oil capacity and therefore a undetected leak from ......Say the speedometer drive could cause expensive trouble and the leak would be to the inside of the hull and not noticed.
    The separate hubs and bevel boxes have their own breather valve set to vent or relief vacuum at certain pressures.
    This can be a source of water entry , especially when swimming.
    On the Limbers the round cross the hull brace between the fuel tank and transfer box is converted to a gear oil tank with dip stick and multiple hose outlets to every hub and bevel box and speedometer drive.
    There are no breather valves and the breather hoses running to the hubs and bevel boxes are completely filled with gear oil.
    There are no air spaces inside the hubs and bevel boxes.
    Than means a incredible amount of oil drag and power lost if the oil is cold and many miles driven down the road until the vehicle warms up and becomes alive.
    The advantage is a leaking hub is not to much of a big deal if the oil tank is kept topped up, and only one top easy to get at top up point.
    The tank being higher than every thing else means the oil is gravity supplied.
    One other point of the central lube tank I found if the black oil dag is just added to the
    tank it still finds its way to every part in short order if the vehicle is used as the whole set up breathes with temperature change of the working oil to and from the tank.
    .

    Thank you for explaining how central tank works, much simpler than I thought... couldnt figure out how the tank could get the levels right in every place at the same time, also now makes sense about the drive train drag when cold as there is no air spaces. Is it worth trying a modern multigrade gear oil? might be more relevant for UK climate?
    Im pretty sure I have seen some breather pipes going back to the hull, but have not got my head round all the pipework yet to figure out where they all go. if mine does not have the central tank which is most likely, at least I can easily make a central tank to mimic the MK2 set up. Most off the tracta joint boots are completely shot, so I think I am going to have to do each wheel station in turn before I even drive it. I definitely have to do the front bevel boxes straight away as well. I do have lots of spare wheel stations, so i might just refurbish one on the bench to start with and swap them round the vehicle. From the sounds of it there are LH and RH versions, but it seems as if the three on each side are the same except for steering gear/rear wheel brackets? The two front wheel stations seem to be very bad condition. when doing the bevel boxes, I should be able to do the disconnects at the same time.

  3. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    The main reason for bevel box oil leaks and failures these days.
    1/ 50 year old seals and O rings.(rubber parts, specially the O rings in the suspension pins will not be solid, but in a semi liquid state and not sealing correctly.)
    2/ These specialised and unusual vehicles have different features and service requirements and the knowledge of this is not passed on to civilian owners who has purchased one as a play toy on the farm and therefore the vehicle fails when bevel boxes are not topped up or suspension pins not lubricated with the correct oil etc.
    3/ The Stalwart can swim or be used in the worse muddy bog hole.....Would a civie farm hand wash the mud from the brake discs or change water contaminated oils.
    Ron
    Hopefully by rebuilding most of the final drive before doing too much will help the longevity with new boots seals etc fitted from the start... do all stalwarts leak or is it possible to have a leak free one??? did I just see a pig flying overhead??
    there must be so much lost information and hard won experience that has not made it through the years, although these forums must help to spread what information is known much further than was previously possible, and also with people such as yourself reporting back on all your hard efforts and learnings, there is opportunity for people to access that knowledge.
    i have to rebuild all the brake calipers too, and I am assuming the master cylinder will be past its sell by date too. Have you had a caliper apart?

    Cheers RichardIMG_6979.jpg
    Sorry for sideways photo... It was the right way up on my laptop!!

  4. #924
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    To the best of my information the wheel stations are the same and the different bits just bolt on.
    The bevel boxes are left and right handed.
    Just clean the points, don't up set the adjustments on them.( sparkplugs with the original suppressed ignition system are touchie and carbon foul easily and will not self clean)
    Front bevel boxes mean removal of hydraulic, fuel tanks ,wheel station and a lot of other stuff.( yes that is the time to fit some sort of disconnect.)
    Wheel stations are a lot of work to refit.( you need to make tools to do this job)
    You may have taken on more than you can handle.
    It took me about 2 weeks crawling over the machine just to learn where everything is and roughly how it worked and I am still learning.
    Broken rubber tracta joint boots is not a problem if the main tracta joint seals are not leaking...........the boot only protects the main seals from dirt and mud........if you don't swim or drive off road, it is not too much of a problem.
    When the army had large workshops looking after them with properly trained mechanics and drivers and they didn't have 50 years under their belts the Stalwarts were mostly leak free.
    Towards the end of their lives in the army the stalwarts were workshop queens.
    Mine spent most of its time not turning a wheel and rotting in the weather, others were driven though any mud hole that could be found because it was a stalwart and the government was picking up the petrol and maintance bill so a driver could have some fun.
    Ron

  5. #925
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    I was watching your videos during the week.

    Now I finally know what it was I saw driving past Bunnings a few years ago

  6. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    To the best of my information the wheel stations are the same and the different bits just bolt on.
    The bevel boxes are left and right handed.
    Just clean the points, don't up set the adjustments on them.( sparkplugs with the original suppressed ignition system are touchie and carbon foul easily and will not self clean)
    Front bevel boxes mean removal of hydraulic, fuel tanks and a lot of other stuff.( yes that is the time to fit some sort of disconnect.)
    Wheel stations are a lot of work to refit.( you need to make tools to do this job)
    You may have taken on more than you can handle.
    It took me about 2 weeks crawling over the machine just to learn where everything is and roughly how it worked and I am still learning.
    Broken rubber tracta joint boots is not a problem if the main tracta joint seals are not leaking...........the boot only protects the main seals from dirt and mud........if you don't swim or drive off road, it is not too much of a problem.
    When the army had large workshops looking after them with properly trained mechanics and drivers and they didn't have 50 years under their belts the Stalwarts were mostly leak free.
    Towards the end of their lives in the army the stalwarts were workshop queens.
    Mine spent most of its time not turning a wheel and rotting in the weather, others were driven though any mud hole that could be found because it was a stalwart and the government was picking up the petrol and maintance bill so a driver could have some fun.
    Ron
    It is very probable I have taken on too much!, this maybe my midlife crisis project, as I am 50 in a weeks time... Just thought that if I dont get on and do some of the things I want to do, I will never do it! I have done quite a number of weird projects over the years, putting bigger engines in cars, making convertibles out of 5 door hatchbacks building some race cars etc and designing and making brake upgrades for things like skylines, road cars that are being used for track day cars. Had to get rid of my early (83 I think) 110 V8 station wagon when I got married (fitted 3.9 fuel injected V8 in this with 5 speed santana box... was going to do lots of other things too but ran out of time and money!
    I will be making up all the special tools similar to you and do have engine crane and forklift available to me, so hopefully that will help a little.
    Will try and post some more pictures when I get the chance. Mine is hull number 139, which was one of the last three mark 1s which were built with a winch from the factory, it will be interesting to see if it has any other Mk2 features once I get into it a bit more.
    Cheers
    Richard

  7. #927
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    Just another report.
    I have been busy looking after my other military toys and they have been taking my time and money.
    In this part of the world the days are starting to get longer and the weather warmer, so I am now getting more interest in the stalwart again.
    My next job must be to bend that leg out angle stainless steel as I need it in place to finish the muffler off and get the big silly thing driveable again.
    Making a bender on the cheap has been proving a challenge.
    In a earlier post someone mention using a roller to bend the angle stainless over a former.
    It now appears to be a good idea as my way is proving very hard.
    The good news is I know I can do a quality bend with effort........I just got to learn how to do it correctly.
    The pictures below shows how I was going to use push bike chain and sprockets to drive the lower rollers.
    DSCN0453 by john smith, on Flickr
    DSCN0440 by john smith, on Flickr
    I got it all set up and failed.
    The effort to drive the angle though the rollers is enormous and the roller just slipped or the chain broke etc.
    A great amount of friction is in the set up because the angle is slid against the non roller backing support which stops the twisting.
    The answer was found in not driving the rollers at all, but just hit the angle though with a copper hammer.
    DSCN0455 by john smith, on Flickr
    DSCN0456 by john smith, on Flickr

  8. #928
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    I used a piece of cardboard and worked out the radius needed.
    Below was my first effort.
    The angle must match the radius of the out side edge of the card board.
    DSCN0452 by john smith, on Flickr.
    Second effort I moved one of the bottom rollers towards the other hoping to tighten the radius of curve.
    DSCN0458 by john smith, on Flickr

    What I ended up with is below.
    DSCN0457 by john smith, on Flickr

    It was not much better.

    I am now thinking .........may be a shorter rolling stroke ? to tighten the curve.
    I don't want to waste more angle .
    The rolled length I worked out from the 90 degree to 90 degree angle from the card board template which should have been right ????
    Brains trust go for it.
    I am open to ideas

    The roller positons on my little bender is adjustable.
    Ron

  9. #929
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    Below is some more stalwart porn
    alvis stalwart BAOR swimming by john smith, on Flickr

    in snow Alvis stalwart by john smith, on Flickr

  10. #930
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Not sure how much use it will be to you mate, but many years ago I used to make custom aluminium windows - including arched and round windows. The section we used was quite complex but the roller we used was a home made job that did very well. The aluminium section used to take 10 to 20 runs backwards and forwards through the rollers, tightening the radius up slightly on each pass. If it was too tight it would stop moving through the rollers and you'd have to back it off a bit. Slowly slowly with forming the radius is what worked, but as I said we were rolling aluminium, not stainless, although it was quite a large section compared to what your rolling.

    The other thing of note was that the rollers were turned up out of 2" steel bar so that all surfaces of the section were supported - and moving. I think some of your issues may be the back of the section you're trying to bend is rubbing on the stationary part of the roller setup.

    I know it's a lot more work but do you have a metal lathe at all? Turning up custom made rollers that's support the outside properly on the lower part and the inside properly on the upper part would help a great deal I think.

    This all might be known to you anyway but just thought I'd share my experience with bending metal over the years.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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