Thread: Diesel in a 101

Originally Posted by 101 Ron

To me personally the 3.5 makes the vehicle as the old rover 8 is reliable and has a good spread of power though the rev range.

Says he who has a 4.6 just waiting to go into his 101 .

Dave - while the Isuzu has great torque, I believe it does have a narrow rev band and would soon run out of gears - likewise it has very low power and is unlikely to be able to push the brick through the air any better than the petrol engine. The weight would require changes to the front springs but also the weight bias towards the front would be too great and dangerous when unloaded.

Garry

you get me a 4bd1t in reasonable order and about $1k to invest in parts and I reckon I can get you 200+hp at the fly.

As one considering buying a Td5 (in a 130 not for the 101), why wouldn't you consider puting one in a 101?
Wish I'd saved a photo of Mr Benson's deisel now. In order to fit the motor in the radiator was mounted on the front and a cowl built around it.
Just a thought, if you're converting, Why not change the gearbox, mount it a little further back, changing the lengths and angles of the driveshafts and hopefully fixing the front driveshaft vibration problem?

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

As one considering buying a Td5 (in a 130 not for the 101), why wouldn't you consider puting one in a 101?
Wish I'd saved a photo of Mr Benson's deisel now. In order to fit the motor in the radiator was mounted on the front and a cowl built around it.
Just a thought, if you're converting, Why not change the gearbox, mount it a little further back, changing the lengths and angles of the driveshafts and hopefully fixing the front driveshaft vibration problem?

The 101 was built with a special short bell housing so the transfercase could be moved forward to stop the rear tailshaft from buzzing.
The rear tailshaft is on its limits too.
The 101 which had been stretched to 130 inches fitted with a 3.9 motor and R380 gearbox I have driven showed the fact the front tailshaft will still buzz even with the extra compression on the springs due to weight and the motor transmission moved the the rear to take advantage of the extra lenght, but nowhere near as bad as a standard 101.
This vehicle also showed the greatly increase in torque the bigger rover V8s have over the standard 3.5.
A 20 percent increase in torque over what you already have is simply brilliant as it is excess to what you are normally use to in the vehicle.
I may add my 3.5 motor is not coming out of the 101 until it wears out for a couple of good reasons.
1/ the motor is in good nick and can still keep me in front of garrys 101 if required.
2/ It is a lot of work to change the motor on a 101.
3/ It will cost 3k to remachine and top hat a 4.6 and although that motor may go harder it still is not as reliable as a 3.5 and will not spin as freely as the 3.5 unless some head work is done especially if you are going to use the 101 carbys and you must use the restrictive 101 exhaust manifold.
4/ now being a stolly owner any mechanical problems or running cost problems i may have had with the 101 are insignificant compared to the stolly

2.7 TDV6 Less than $3200 +delivery+GST
Range rover sport 2.7 tdv6 engine complete on eBay (end time 05-Feb-11 02:38:31 GMT)


TDV8 $4400 +
RANGE ROVER L322 3.6 TDV8 ENGINE 2007 TO 2010 on eBay (end time 02-Feb-11 15:03:05 GMT)

Almost viable at these prices.

Mick was the Benson 101 that ugly one that was on ebay a while back?

Originally Posted by garrycol

Mick was the Benson 101 that ugly one that was on ebay a while back?

Yes

I will note a good mate of mine has a stage 1 series three with a Isuzu with the LT90 running gear.
me in the 101 and he in the Isuzu both pulling trailers , him with a haflinger and me with WLA harley and a BSA on a heavier built trailer,,ie we both were pulling the same weight.
My 101 running the over drive and LPG there was nothing in between the two vehicles performance wise up hill and on the flat.
As far as i am concerned performance between the 3.5(low compression) and the Isuzu (non turbo ) are the same in the real world on the same transmissions and the running cost diesel verses LPG is similar.
The diesel will last longer and have longer legs.( that if it doesnt screw the transmission first)

What does converting to diesel do to the 2nd hand value of the vehicle? I doubt you'd ever be any better off financially which makes the cost of petrol a bit of a moot point. Has anyone developed workarounds to install the modern diesels (2.7v6td or tdv8) as standalone without all the various other bcm's and assorted computers? That and if one of the reasons for converting is better touring range who will be able to fix a heavily customized modern diesel powered 101 if things don't go as planned when your out in the bush?

As has been suggested I think a jap fc would be the better bet and your not killing a classic but at the end of the day it's your car to do with what you like.