Reply With QuoteI think Mrs. HH meant the brake master cylinder.
I had mine done. I didn't think it was that expensive.
LordRover
SupporterWhen you say slave cylinder - what exactly do you mean? The clutch slave cylinder ($75 for stainless sleeve) or something else.
What did you do with the rear apportioning valve as, as you appreciate these are a pain.
It does feel good when a plan comes together- well done.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Swaggie
I think Mrs. HH meant the brake master cylinder.
I had mine done. I didn't think it was that expensive.
LordRover
SupporterIt was just on $300 to have the mastercylinder resleeved and rekitted and to have the booster rebuilt.
I have to agree though about brakes and cost. When I was getting my 101 back on the road the single most time consuming and costly item were the brakes (and clutch hydraulics) as they required a complete rebuild - the only thing that had me stumped was the rear load apportioning valve that was knackered and was just too expensive at the time so I modified an old landrcruiser one to fit. Considered removing it completely or putting in a a manual operated valve but the lamdcruiser one seemed to work OK.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
LordRover
SubscriberYes sorry guys, my wording wasn't very good. The whole lot got done for around $600.00, App valve, booster and master cylinder.
Mrs hh
Series Landy Rescue
Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
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'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
YarnMaster
$600 for the whole lot seems pretty good to me!
New discs; re-bonded shoes; some seals; reconditioned calipers, and three hoses, cost me $900 for my Alpine.
At least with re-sleeving and yearly fluid changes, you won't have to bother with them much again,
Cheers Charlie
Fossicker
on mine after a bit offroading the rear apportionng valve would always stick making for some tail sliding moments..the fix was a few hard stomps on the brake.
Master
I've not got an apportioning valve previous owner completely removed it and bypassed it
Swaggie
Are you going to re-install one in your rebuild?Originally Posted by spongie
Why, why not? What issues would you expect? I would have thought under heavy braking the rear wheels would lock. Great for handbrake turns without using the handbrake but, I'm not sure you'd be wanting to do that sort of driving n a 101 or would you?
Master
I'm really not sure what to fit to be honest. Part of me thinks it must have been fine for po but then I think the factory fitted them for a reason!!!
YarnMaster
SubscriberYikes! A friend built a 90" coil sprung Lightweight years ago in the UK... He left the restriction valve for the rear brakes out... It ended upside down in a ditch about 3 months later. I know mine is ceased, as I couldn't get brakes at the rear for the pits visit... One tap with a punch and I now have good rear brakes on the black top, but as Mick says, if I stand on them on the dirt, the rear locks and is really keen to do some overtaking!!
1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB
1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)
'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'
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