Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Well found the little brackets. And seeing Garry's third picture its a little more obvious how the two parts go together.

This pic shows the little bracket, the wholes line up, it just needs to slot in behind the piece of metal on the nose cone - will be a tight squeeze with my new seam sealer tape.


This pic shows how the engine tunnel piece looks like it should slot under the nose cone section piecing it all together much better but one of Gary's pics shows it shouldn't be this way, and that would also pull some of the holes out of alignment. That same pic of Garry's also shows the bottom of the 90deg bracket through the hole.

With everything in place I cannot see what shape it is under the floor panel etc. I cannot find it as a separate item in the parts manual so I assume it is considered part of the tunnel panel and as can be seen is pop riveted from inside the tunnel.

I suspect this little plate ties the corner all together.

Garry

A 101 jigsaw that you did not pull apart is a serious challenge. I bet you know the parts manual really well.

Following is a closeup of mine. The hole was originally plugged with a bit of filler, as Garry said good to drain the water. I will cover the floor with something one day and that should cover the hole enough for cold weather.
The lump that is out of focus to the bottom left is the internal helicopter lift point.

If you want any more pics let me know, I already have around 1600 shots of mine and other 101's on disc. Generally I will have much higher resolutions shots than are on the web.

Cheers, Peter

Originally Posted by garrycol

I suspect this little plate ties the corner all together.

Garry

It would appear that this is the case. It must reinforce the corner and help it all hold together.

Thanks for that shot Peter, it shows the bracket quite clearly in position, its good to see the factory didn't get the rivet hole placement right everyone else's brackets too

I was considering filling the hole up with seam filler, but if its useful for draining water I may leave it and just plug it with apiece of rubber.

Your right about it being a challenge Peter. I thankfully have one side of the cab part assembled (the passenger seat base) which should help me get a lot of it back together but I have been getting to know the parts manual and repair manuals quite intimately.

Now have the nose cone and tunnel riveted together.

Bunnings cheapo assorted screw/bolt pack used to help fix two parts together and line up the holes before fixing together with rivets:


Nuts and bolts in use:


All fixed together:



Its really motivating seeing some body parts back together. Over the next couple of weekends I will get the disassembled seatbox back together, the only challenge in that is stripping off the bitumen under-sealer thats still on some parts. Going to try and get hold of some dry-ice. Supposedly that will harden it it will simply crack off. Alternatively, I will apply some gentle heat and scrap it off, just a lot messier.

Is it my imagination or are you missing holes for the lights on the RHS?

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

Is it my imagination or are you missing holes for the lights on the RHS?

The holes are definitely there (I just popped out to check ). Its the aluminium behind the holes making it look like they are absent. The high res photo is a bit clearer.

Stuee - I just had to replace the speedo cable in my 101 - what should be a simple job turned into nightmare (and brought back bad memories when I was getting mine back on the road) because of the mess that lives behind the dash. Basically wiring comes from the two (i think) main looms behind the dash and secures directly to the various gauges and lights on the dash - an off course all this wiring is very short.

Modern cars have the dash wiring as a printed circuit board with plugs that connect it to the loom - when it needs to come out you just unplug it and the dash comes out complete with it own wiring.

When you do your wiring up in the dash I suggest you do all the wiring to a plug that will then plug into a new plug on the end of the main wiring loom. One at either end would probably suffice. This will makes this much easier for you when later you have to pull the dash out to replace bulbs etc.

As it is now for me - whenever I need to get behind my dash, wires often come off making whatever I am doing more complex.

Something you might want to consider when you get to it.

PS also consider relocating the engine coil etc away from the area just above the front left chassis rail - in deeper water crossings it gets splashed from inside the tunnel and the water hits the front diff and shoots straight up between the gap between the radiator and engine (this issue killed my 101 on a trip and resulted in it getting tilt trayed 180km back home).

I am looking at moving my coil and electronic ignition module up in the battery box to keep dry and putting a rubber shield along the bottom of the radiator and in front of the dizzy.

Cheers

Garry