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Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

  1. #11
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    Just cleaned and started priming a few more bits today.

    Freshly cleaned parts:


    Started priming them:

  2. #12
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    Geee I hope you have asked permission to put all those parts on the kitchen table

    looking good there keep up the fantastic effort

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
    Our FB Page..
    https://www.facebook.com/SeriesLR?ref=bookmarks

    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  3. #13
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    Only been painting bits this past week and not happy with how they turned out . It seems the motospray subframe paint is either very soft, takes more than week to harden fully or is completely incompatible with white night primer (very possible but the guy who sold it to me believed otherwise...).

    The paint does seem to be quite soft though, I can scratch the finish with my fingernail, so perhaps it has been designed that way, ie a rock will just dent the finish, as opposed to chip it NFI really, could just be me not being able to handle a spray can.

    edit** Only other thing I can think that may be causing it is the cool weather. I did make sure to only paint when the temps where above 10 degrees, but perhaps this could be why its not curing properly??

    This photo shows all the bits in a nice shiny black:


    This next photo shows how the paint has rubbed off onto the cardboard. Thinking it might be because it was painted yesterday, I tried rubbing a part I painted last weekend and sure enough, it rubbed off the same way cheese would rub off on sand paper


    Not sure what to do now. The White Night primer seems to be quite tough, so I think any other parts will get a coat of white night enamel instead of this motospray stuff. Then as these bits chip or scrape off I will pull them off, strip them back and repaint again, not going to do it now as I will probably get depressed at the wasted effort and not touch it for weeks.

    Good news is I'm taking the chassis, wheels and bumper in this week for galvanising. Not sure when I'll pick it up though as my last day of work at my current job is Friday and with drinks to follow it wont be picked up after work. My dad may be kind enough to pick it up for me, but I just have to be in a state to help unload it on Saturday

    edit2** more crappy paint:

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Why wurry - it will all be gone after your first decent trip offroad
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Why wurry - it will all be gone after your first decent trip offroad


    Basically I'm just wanting a finish that will keep everything rust free for however long I own the truck.

  6. #16
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    Jan 2008
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    Nowra NSW
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    Use enamel harder additive (enamel add) as it will do Three things.
    1/ makes the paint dry very quickly.....2 hours or sooner
    2/ makes standard paint alot harder and stronger.
    3/ Adds extra gloss to the paint.
    just spray over the paint you already have done.
    Do not put back paint from the spray gun with enamel add in it back into the tin or you will loose the lot.
    I am using standard protec enamel paint (304) with enamel add on the Stalwart I am playing with currently and getting good results in the cool weather.
    On sand blasted surfaces I am not using a primer, but spraying the colour straight on with good results.
    Expect to pay just under 50 dollars for a small tin of enamel add, but it will do a large amount of paint.
    The other thing I have found if using flat paint , you can get that paint to semi gloss or gloss finish using enamel add.
    Ron

  7. #17
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    I think the paint you are using for the final finish/colour may not be the best.
    Look for a Protec paint dealer....aussie made and good paint.
    4 litres of enamel will cost about 75 dollars.

  8. #18
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    Nowra NSW
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    Sorry I just noticed you are using aerosol cans....motorubbish aersol paint is rubbish.
    You would need to go to Holts range of aerosol paints at a far greater price.
    The problem is the cost of buying good aerosol paint is expensive and the dearest form of painting.
    Cheap 2hp compressor from super cheap auto with a spray gun and regulator may be easier in the long term and will save money on bigger jobs as well is being able to use the compressor for other things.

  9. #19
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    Dec 2006
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    Narrogin WA
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    I bring my small parts inside and let them get warm near the fire after painting.

    I agree with you that the cold weather is probably the problem,

    Cheers Charlie

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    Sorry I just noticed you are using aerosol cans....motorubbish aersol paint is rubbish.
    You would need to go to Holts range of aerosol paints at a far greater price.
    The problem is the cost of buying good aerosol paint is expensive and the dearest form of painting.
    Cheap 2hp compressor from super cheap auto with a spray gun and regulator may be easier in the long term and will save money on bigger jobs as well is being able to use the compressor for other things.
    I have been offered the use of a compressor and paint gun by my little brother, I may have to take him up on that offer now. Had been eying off the bunnings 2-2.5hp compressors, both are under $150...

    Thanks for the heads-up on the motospray quality and tip about aerosol cans.

    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    I bring my small parts inside and let them get warm near the fire after painting.

    I agree with you that the cold weather is probably the problem,

    Cheers Charlie
    Yep, any other small bits I will bring inside soon after painting to see if this helps the paint cure. Have bought this last batch in but I think they may be a lost cause.

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