Same thing - the master is the thing your foot pushes - the slave is the cylinder that reacts - the wheel cylinder :)Quote:
Originally Posted by lardy
Garry
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Same thing - the master is the thing your foot pushes - the slave is the cylinder that reacts - the wheel cylinder :)Quote:
Originally Posted by lardy
Garry
Lilly was happy to be home. We got her a day early as she was recovering very well. Unfortunately she'll be confined to a crate for three months until the bone can grow onto the new hip socket and all walks outside will on a lead and with a sling under her belly as a precaution in case she slips.Quote:
Originally Posted by lardy
She's quite content in her crate atm as I imagine she is still in a lot of pain, plus her meds all have lethargy as a side affect although I don't know what she'll be like in 4 - 8 weeks time when most of the muscle has healed. Apparently she will have been in extreme pain for quite some time with the bones grinding away on one another, quite surprising really considering her temperament, but the surgeon said that pain would basically have been swapped for surgical pain (i.e being cut open). She rarely whimpers and if it wasnt for her original limp we would have never known.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/11/52.jpg
Bit depressing right now but hopefully it means her quality of life will be greatly improved after the next 12 weeks.
Poor pup, she really don't look very old at all that sucks.
On the good side hopefully her quality of life will improve dramatically for the better.
Douggie (3) gets up like an old man after a long lay down but overall gets around ok at the moment.
Cheers for letting us know how she is going
Andy
Well the shutdown is over at work so I am slowly getting used to normal hours again. Have started playing with the 101 a bit more and struggling with removing the drums. They've (well I've only been looking at the drivers front one atm) been soaking in a combination of penetrate and Wd-40 for over two weeks now. Using the an impact driver and the tap for loosening the brake drum I appear to have unseized half of the brake drum and if the land rover engineers had put a second tap in I probably would have all the drums off and be asking a different brake related question by now. As such I have resorted to a rubber mallet which did nothing, a 4lb'er with a block of wood and various tapping with a normal ball pein hammer which also have done nothing.
Suggestions from work are an oxy to heat it up and destroy anything that resembles a seal in the hub while I'm at it and various websites show how using a full sized sledge hammer direct on the drum can work. I was hoping to save the drums but I'm now slowly realizing that it may not be possible.
Any helpful hints? I'm assuming once I start belting the drums direct with a 4lb'er or applying heat they are no good to re-use. In which case where to buy new? I see Anthony over east has the fronts at a reasonable price. Do you guys just run these front and back? I believe from reading on the 101 club forum that the rear drums are narrower but can be substituted by fronts, just not the other way around??
Also some pics of whats been happening (note there's none of the brakes because they've not been happening :mad:).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/890.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/891.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/892.jpg
Just in case you have forgotten to do it - are the brake adjusters backed right off?Quote:
Originally Posted by stuee
If you have got the drum moving away from the hub that is a good thing - is it able to spin freely? if it sticks, or won't spin, then I suspect that a wheel cylinder is stuck in the out position; or the drum is full of of sand and rubbish, in which case rotating it with a bar through the protected wheel studs should clear most of it away.
On my S1 I unbolted the backing plate and released the hub nut so that the whole assembly could come off and then I could undo the wheel cylinders and bash the drum off, after drilling through the slotted piece on the wheel cylinder piston. This didn't harm the drums but in my case they were knackered anyway.
Alternatively; there is a tool called a brake-drum-puller, which should do the job provided the wheel cylinders are not stuck in the out possie. It may be possible to buy one but I would ask the garages in your area if you could hire one for the day. If you are handy with making things, it would not be very hard to make a puller. Unfortunately I don't own one myself, otherwise you could borrow it,
Cheers Charlie
I had similar problems getting my 101 drums off - as mentioned make sure the adjusters etc are loosened off and of course the drum retaining screws have been removed.
The drums tend to be held in by corrosion around the wheel studs and against the hub. Lots of penetrating oil is needed and the drum need to come off square or else it jams. I found lots of baby taps around the back of the drum and some more hefty taps to the side of the drums help - always applying more penetrating oil. Be careful as bits of the mud guard at the rear of the drum easily breaks off.
New drums will be hard to find in Aust - do not rely on Anthony's website and I would be ringing him to find out availability. My drums were out of specs and I needed new ones and while Anthony's site had them listed he had no new drums but did have a good set of second hand ones. These are now down to to min specs and I will need to get new ones soon.
So if you can try to save your drums as it will be an expensive exercise to get new ones - probably from the UK as unless you got lucky, Anthony would be about the only one to have some - and could be second hand.
Garry
Suffering snakes you are not wrong Garry! :eek: 89 to 127 Pounds each!Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
If I had a car with stupid prices such as that, I would make a pattern; build myself a real furnace and cast new ones myself!
Another useful technique to free a drum stuck to the hub is to whack the face of the drum between the wheel-studs with a heavy hammer, firmly and several times; the rust gives up the ghost before too long,
Cheers Charlie
My second hand ones were $100 ea plus postage four years ago.
Garry
The retaining screws are out, the adjusters are wound right back and I can rotate the drum easily for 95% of the rotation then it appears as if theres some crap starting to grab.
When I've used the extractor screw its like the drum is peeling off the hub. Its like its screwed in on the opposite side, except that it isn't so I am assuming its rusted onto the hub as it doesn't even move a whisker.
I thought Anthony's website might have been too good to be true after seeing the prices from places like John Craddock etc.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.