3ft breaker bar from the old boy and a $99 40-piece 1/2" Stanley Socket set from supercheap got that bugger sorted. Now having my own beers to celebrate after the cracking of a single bolt - didn't even pull it out... might have been a long day at work too
When I heard the crack as the bolt freed up I did wet myself a bit. I've heard sounds like that before when the heads snap off bolts. last thing I wanted was to be trying to extract a stud from the diff housing.
Might try and drop the diff out if I get home at a reasonable hour through the week.
Well having a crack at pulling the diff today and so far no luck. Levering off the crown wheel bolts for one side and the diff bolts that hold the two halves together and not budged an iota. Wrecking bar behind the crown wheel bolts is flexing nicely, and my large screwdriver on the other side looks as if its going to break. Also tried above and below the diff body.
Any suggestions to easily lever the diff out?
Going to have to go and buy a thor hammer to put it back in by the looks of things, doubt my nylon or rubber mallets are going to cut it if its this hard to get out.
Bigger bar? If you were nearer you could borrow my spreader... the one I made but never used as all my Salisbury centers have been loose enough to pull out! Sooooo, on a different note, have you a deadline to get yours on the road.....? How does Melrose next year sound?? We've hopefully got a good selection of 'Team Victoria' coming over, and prob some from NSW.... . Keep up the good work.. Following with interest!!
March 8 is my deadline to have it on the road and registered so I can drive it to my wedding.
Post wedding I'll probably be working 6 days weeks preparing for a major shutdown at work so hopefully 2015 I can take it a few places.
The 101 only had 27k on the odo, so I assume due to the low number of kilometers its still pretty tight. I'm pretty set on making a spreader now, they aren't all that hard to make I would of had a go today accept bunnings charges crack pipe money for steel and no where else is open. Will try and raid the workshop at work on Monday to see if I can find anything. In the meantime I'll get back to pulling the hubs down so I can sort out the rear brakes.
I've also been working on the clutch pedal box over the past couple of weeks. I'm going to attempt to get the clutch hydraulics sorted first before moving onto the brakes.
Searching through my pictures I don't appear to have taken a picture of the pedal box before I cleaned it up but its a massive improvement over what it was. Pedal action is lovely ans smooth and it looks pretty sharp.
Now I'm just deciding if I paint the fixing bolts black to contrast with the bodywork.
I still can't get over the clarity of your photos!! They are brilliant! I should probably invest in a decent camera and not rely on an Ipad! Looking at those bolts, you'll probably have to do something with them as given time they will rust and leave run marks below them on your paint.. Stainless would look the part, but given the job you are using them for, its prob not an option.. I think they'd be too brittle. If your bumper and grille are going black, then I think they'd look fine black too.. (I'm using Satin Black on my bumper, grille, hinges tanks, wheel steps etc..) Keep up the good work! Love your deadline reason too!!! If you get stuck nearer the time, call... Can see an AULRO adventure in the making!!
I've been using galv washers in an attempt to slow down corrosion but I have painted a few bolts before for the cab. Problem was I was wanting to get this in to see some progress and didn't want to wait 48 hours for two coats of paint to dry. I have bought myself a few model brushes and tin of satin black, I was thinking towards the end I can go over the cab and paint whats needed. Otherwise they can get a coat of clear coat.
The camera I use is a Panasonic Lumix LX5, basically a high end point and shoot. It does give lovely shots but my 1st camera, a Cannon IXUS 870 was pretty much just as good when there was plenty of light about but in low light conditions the LX5 is much better thanks to its F2.0 lens.
I'm making good progress on my deadline but I need to make sure I keep going on it and not leave it idle. I have most of the bits I need now too so hopefully I don't need to put too many more $$$ in. Just the final paint and tyres being the next big ticket items.
There's a guy on the 101 Club forum has a set of Michelin 900x16 XCL'z for sale ATM.... They are the right money for what they are, and would look good on your truck.. I ran them on my last 101 and they worked well. Shipping thru Maru cost me under $1000 for a large engine and box, so would have to be half that for 5 tyres! Just an idea...
Dont have the dosh for the tyres at the moment. May end up even regoing on the existing tyres at this rate. That and that person is only selling to club members.
Calling it quits on the diff locker until I get the 101 back on the road. I've spent three weekends now working at it and no luck. My Mk1 diff spreader flexes too much and needs more reinforcing, already spent most of this morning knocking that together and not making any progress so will push on. At the end of the day its not that big a deal to pull the axles to fit it in the future. Crunch time is approaching and with three other weddings to go to in the next month and no time to work on the 101 after work its going to start getting tight
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If you were nearer you could borrow my spreader... the one I made but never used as all my Salisbury centers have been loose enough to pull out! Sooooo, on a different note, have you a deadline to get yours on the road.....? How does Melrose next year sound?? We've hopefully got a good selection of 'Team Victoria' coming over, and prob some from NSW.... 
. Keep up the good work.. Following with interest!!
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