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Looks like a brilliant job you are doing keep it up. Your not the first or will you be the last to mistakenly put leds in charge Light and not get a charge. But at least you noticed quickly I went through several weeks of flat batteries before realising my mistake whilst fitting a 200tdi in my series 2a
What are you wrapping the loom in? I've done my rear chassis harness in a braided expandable sleeve with heat shrink either end to prevent unravelling. The rest of the loom I'm going to wrap in cloth loom tape.
The main loom will be wrapped in split nylon braid (should be picking it up from my mate tomorrow) but the rest of it I'm using split corrugated conduit. Not what I originally wanted but its easy to get a hold of (any auto parts store) and reasonably cheap. The bits under the dash I may go back and swap out with the nylon braid after its on the road. Once I have it one though the loom will be fixed in place permanently and touch wood I wont have to touch it again.Quote:
Originally Posted by spongie
Re the LED ignition light thankfully I caught it before I got the beast running with the alternator. I did look at running a resistor etc to get it going but far too much effort and I didn't want a ceramic resistor melting wiring under the dash. I've not got a number of spare globes from the other dash lights that have been replaced with modern types or with LED's. I'm just a bit miffed it doesn't match the two indicator LED's.
I'm going to have a crack at the wiper assembly tonight, start pulling it apart and see what needs doing. I know for a fact I need two brand new arms and wipers but I'm hoping the rest is in good nick.
They're not difficult to get bits for. I believe the wiper boxes are the same as an MGB and probably other period British stuff, not sure if defender ones are long enough, but happy to be proved wrong.
Defender wiper arms fit, and come with the added bonus of better wiper blades, as seen on my old GS rebuild. You'll also notice the washer jets were also replaced with a pair of Defender ones as the originals were rather manky. I think it looked pretty tidy, and it worked rather well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/657.jpg
Not a huge deal done during the week. While fitting the nylon braid wrap over the wire I managed to cut my left index finger right on the tip which has been a pain. Makes it difficult to do tricky jobs and typing is much harder :mad:
Anyway pictures:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/500.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/501.jpg
Wiper box in its previous state:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/502.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/503.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/504.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/505.jpg
Now:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/506.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/507.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/508.jpg
Runs very smoothly now. Its pretty obvious why it might have been a bit rough before. Gearbox was fine, I just scraped out some of the old grease which was drying up and put some new stuff in.
I had a cracked washer bottle so I found a very close fit generic unit and modified the existing bracket to suite.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/509.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/510.jpg
Ill post another pic when its installed and hooked up.
Thanks for the tips on the defender washer jets. I cant tell from the picture but did you have to use one of the bushes from the existing jets to make it fit properly (i.e space it out correctly), or does it work fine without?Quote:
Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan
I'm going to look at what they cost locally over the weekend otherwise I'll get some ebay specials at under $10 a jet.
The Defender ones go straight on, there's a bit screws on the back to hold them in position, with enough sticking through to attach the pipes to. No spacers required, and being plastic the nut can't corrode onto the jet.
Stuee that wiring looks brilliant and tidy. Did you say the nylon is split to get wiring in? Otherwise looks like what I'm using
Thats correct. A mate sourced it for me so not 100% of brand but its definitely split. I've only got the nylon stuff for the main sections of the loom though, not enough time to source it for everything else. Its actually quite difficult to work with, a razor sharp Stanley knife will barely touch it so its extremely cut resistant, and when you do cut it the ends get frayed and messy unless you tape it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by spongie
Split tube corrugated conduit on the other hand while not as visually appealing is far easier to work with IMO.
Beautiful job cobber!
Reference your cable-cover - try cutting it with a hot knife, which should fuse the ends together and stop the fraying,
Cheers Charlie
Just a note for those doing brake or clutch lines there are both iso (bubble) and double flares used on the 101. This has caused me a bit of grief as my rigid tool only does single or double flares - I've seen youtube vids of how to make a bubble like flare with a standard double flare tool but not going to risk it on the brakes.
My job over the weekend is now to get all my new bundy tube cut to length, straightened (if my wood blocks work) and shaped up where possible then take it all to the fittings shop on Monday to get the bubble flares done as well as pick up some new fittings which I hadn't accounted for.
When the job is done I'll try and do a table up for the various fittings and flares used for others to use in the future.