Rolling
Random close-up, brakes and brake lines are next. Looking at a flaring and cutting kit for brake line.
Was really quite surprised how tall the chassis sits. This is going to be a big beast when its put back together!!
Rolling
Random close-up, brakes and brake lines are next. Looking at a flaring and cutting kit for brake line.
Was really quite surprised how tall the chassis sits. This is going to be a big beast when its put back together!!
Looking good there stuee...wheels certainly make things easier
Mrs hh![]()
Series Landy Rescue
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'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
Wow you make me so jealous would love a fc, could you tell me where did you get your galvanizing and blasting done what are you doing about stripping body parts I would like to soda blast it all but don’t know what to do what was the cost. Your help would be lovely thank you Simon
G'day All,
Mate that looks the ducks gutz, right up my alley, great work, keep it rolling,
cheers Dennis
I haven't personally had any sand blasting done as the previous owner has already had the chassis blasted and 95% of repairs carried out. When I do get around to getting the body blasted I will be using this mob:
Home - stripped-bare, Perth's longest serving soda blasting company
Mainly because they appear to have a good rep, offer a priming service and are located close to my new workplace. On a side note I have heard negative comments regarding soda blasting aluminum panels, with some saying unless they are washed thoroughly immediately after then you risk having them corrode quite severely (bad reaction between media and alum). Don't know how true it is as I didn't bother looking into it further but the above mob use their own media which I've been told is safe. I'm also yet to get quotes for blasting and priming as I'm waiting till the chassis is nearly finished (fuel and brake lines, engine, transmission etc), only due to lack of $$ to go all out atm.
I had the galvanizing done through Fero Galv. Their rates are around $2/kg. I ended up paying just under $500 at mates rates and that included the Chassis, front bumper, 5 rims, and inner and outer wheel arches. I highly recommend this mob and was very happy with the service and finish. Like any other galv joint though, they take no responsibility for chassis warping so its dip at your own risk. They may also need to drill additional holes for drainage, if they are not happy with your prep work.
Certainly does, also means I can stand on the chassis and bounce it up and down (the closest I can get to sitting in the seat and making car noises atm)
I do have a heap of yard maintenance to do now though so will be giving the project a rest the next couple of weekends to get the house looking reasonable again.
Chasing a bit of advice people.
Looking to get the ball rolling with the 101 again but not so sure about how to proceed atm. I was orignally planning to get the brakes sorted (have to overhaul/rebuild all components and put new lines in) but have come to the realisation that due to not having the master cylinder assembly available (require the cab to be in place), I wont be able to test whether or not what I've put in has worked.
I'm now thinking Ill get the motor and gearbox back in, along with drive-shafts so I can use the handbrake and then look at reassembling the cab and getting it primmed and trial fit in in place prior to painting. What are peoples thoughts on this? Are there things I should be looking at doing before this? Unfortunately I dont have the luxury of having a firewall that I can leave in place while I wire everything up, mount pedal assemblies and master cylinders etc so I figure the cab is the next main thing to get done??
I have plenty of little jobs to keep me occupied in the mean time while I decide what to do, but I figure I will soon have to drop a bit of cash on the media blasting and painting of the cab, which I have to save for again seeing as I somehow managed to agree with the missus to pay our water and land rates with my 101 fundAlso, in case anyone is interested I am pretty sure I have settled on Nara Bronze as the colour I want, with fresh galved parts and a black dyed hood
Also 101ers reading this I would appreciate any photos of the shuttle valve location on the chassis and brake line connections between the cab and chassis. The parts manual and workshop manual don't indicate this very well. Alternatively if a Perth 101er is available sometime after October (flat out with work atm) then I'd be keen to buy them a beer in exchange for going nuts with my camera taking snaps of their 101.
My thinking on this would to fit engine and transmission next.
A fellow called Cooee fitted the front of his 101 on in one piece.....a nose cone type set up which he tried on and off a few times etc .(acess was good that way)
My feeling is the brakes to do later is not a big deal.
The wiring though the nose and front half of the body work would be hard.
Are you going to do the wiring as standard or do your own wiring from stratch.
Knowing where the engine coolant pipes and wiring run along things, transmission cables will be hard without another 101 to refer to.
If you get too stuck on the positions of the brake pipes etc I will take pics
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