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Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

  1. #531
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Canberra
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    A universal brake switch from Repco works just fine.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #532
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    A universal brake switch from Repco works just fine.

    Garry
    The original switch ended up being quite easy to open up and the contacts didn't have too much damage from arcing. A polish with the dremel and some lube and its actually working quite nicely now. Its good to know a universal switch can be used quite easily though.

  3. #533
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    Jan 1970
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    Also - that junction box up the rear is going to need plenty of protection from the elements - it get very wet and dirty up there.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #534
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Also - that junction box up the rear is going to need plenty of protection from the elements - it get very wet and dirty up there.

    Garry
    The "finished" photo that I don't have would show the junction box with its plastic cover on that seals it up. My main concern is the heat from the exhaust so I will be watching it closely for that so I will keep an eye out for moisture and mud working its way in.

    I've used on of these:
    Products

  5. #535
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    Jan 1970
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    Perth
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    I got stuck into the 101 today, drivers side door mounted, mud guards freshened up and ready for mounting tomorrow, and a few other small jobs. I also started trying to put the engine cover on only to realise the pinchweld (same type as what i pulled off) doesn't let the cover sit properly and obviously doesn't seal so Ill be off to Clark rubber tomorrow to get a couple of meters of pinch weld with a side mounted bubble, this should let the cover sit properly. Something like this:
    PINCHWELD EPDM RUBBER SMALL #37

    I also figured out today that I'll be in the US for work when the W4 challenge is on which is when I wanted to have the 101 ready for I'm still keen to have it registered before I depart in 3 weeks, but the it would have to figure out how to stop my dad and the FIL taking it for drives while I'm away!

  6. #536
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    Jan 1970
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    Perth
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    Another pretty solid day with a break in the middle to go out for lunch. I'm making good progress but not much is as straight forward as it should be.

    The mud flaps are on but the fit of the rear ones is terrible due to the chassis repairs. I'll ask the panel shop to make some new ones up for me.


    Pic of the front drivers door mounted yesterday:

    Its gonna be a tight squeeze when its all put together!

    The new seal on the engine cover, it fits great now:



    And the gearbox and transfer oil change was lots of fun... The transfer was a horrible milky colour, while the gear box looked okay but the filter had loads of nasty stuff in it so probably hadn't been changed in a while. I need to get myself a good oil pump to fill the lt95 with much less spillage and to do it much faster.


  7. #537
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    The milky stuff means water in the oil!

    It might be worthwhile to either remove the bottom plate and wipe it clean, or change the oil after a run to make sure it has all gone,

    Cheers Charlie

  8. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    The milky stuff means water in the oil!

    It might be worthwhile to either remove the bottom plate and wipe it clean, or change the oil after a run to make sure it has all gone,

    Cheers Charlie
    Looks like it must of had quite a bit in there, it must have been in some deep water . Plan is to drive it to the panel beaters, around 10k round trip, and drop just the transfer oil ass soon as I pick it up again before all the gunk can settle. I checked out through the filler hole and it still looks good inside, I also flushed as much as I could while its stationary.

    The diffs and CV's will also get fresh oil once its had a longer run to heat them up.

  9. #539
    Join Date
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    With the colour and consistency of the oil I would be concerned about the oil pump gears in the gearbox. The original fibre gears can strip out easily and then oil circulation in the gearbox is reduced to splash lubrication only and not via the shafts centres.
    There are good steel replacements available and they are easy the change .... once the gearbox is out

  10. #540
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    Jan 1970
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    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterP View Post
    With the colour and consistency of the oil I would be concerned about the oil pump gears in the gearbox. The original fibre gears can strip out easily and then oil circulation in the gearbox is reduced to splash lubrication only and not via the shafts centres.
    There are good steel replacements available and they are easy the change .... once the gearbox is out
    Hi Peter
    After looking at both those photo's the gearbox oil is a deep red, but the oil coming out of the transferbox is the milky stuff.

    Flush the transferbox out and fill with fresh gear oil and it all should be good.
    .

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