Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Unfortunately its been over 12 months since I had them done. Ill be giving them a call anyway to see if they'll come to the party. I did try calling on Thursday but got put on hold and gave up after 5 minutes of listening to promos. I forgot to call them back on Friday. I need to bring the car up to mine, was going to do it this weekend but I've decided its too hot so will organise a day during the week.

Finally brought the 101 back to my place last week. Dropped the brake fluid last night, pulled the MC off and then dropped the pedal box out to get the booster. Into Perth Brake Parts this morning and they are going to check it out for me, should hear back Tuesday as their booster guy only works during the week.

Also going to tidy a few things up on the Master Cylinder, I need two new screws that hold the adaptor for the remote reservoir, and may as well clean and paint where brake fluid effected the paint when I first filled the system up.

I'm spewing a bit as today would be perfect to go for a cruise in the 101, the weather probably couldn't be any better

I'm also going to have a scout around for some defender seats too. The cushions on mine appear to have collapsed either with age or due to my delicate frame If anyone knows of any seats with rails in reasonably good nic with around Perth for sale let me know, otherwise I might even look for new seats, or at least the driver seat for now. I love how Brutes look with the canvas covers on

While you have the pedal box out, swap the servo/booster for a Disco 1 unit. Twice the boost as its a double booster. Just doing mine as my brakes had become non existent, ant the contents of the reservoir were on the floor!!

I got my booster back in the other week after having it fixed free of charge then when bleeding the rear brakes the apportioning valve was sucking in air when using my vacuum bleeder. It's was dripping previously but know leaks quite badly. I've got a rebuild kit (including new piston) coming from Able engineering along with a brand new valve. These should see me out for the life of the car otherwise a rebuild kit is around $40 AUD not including delivery. I would have had these parts delivered on Friday but wasn't home and TNT don't have a weekend pick-up so getting them on the way to work tomorrow then it should be in the shop on Tuesday and be back to normal Wednesday.

While the 101 has been parked up I finally wired up my isolator switch and also added some ARB tie down tracks I got at the 4wd show. I've also got a DIY tyre carrier kit from Rijidij on the way over along with some jerry can holders. I've been drawing the carrier up in solidworks and will get some brackets laser cut after I receive the kit from Murray to confirm some dimensions.


Still looking at seats too. Was going to go to the Stratos dealer near by on my last RDO to see if they will fit but the 101 is not mobile which makes it a bit difficult.

Originally Posted by Sitec

While you have the pedal box out, swap the servo/booster for a Disco 1 unit. Twice the boost as its a double booster. Just doing mine as my brakes had become non existent, ant the contents of the reservoir were on the floor!!

After seeing what yourself and Gav have had to do I'm not so keen on the D1 mod. I was happy with the adapting the bracket on the pedal link end but welding extensions to the booster pushrod is probably not within my capabilities. Before my booster failed the first time and after my discs had bedded in I was quite happy with the braking performance of the 101.

If the bakelite collar fails again (I hope not because it was running the original collar after the rebuild so hopefully the new one lasts much longer) I may look at the possibility but the type 50 servo is a much more straightforward change out and will give similar braking performance to original so I'd probably go with that.

Just looking at your spare wheel carrier.. I'd consider mounting the wheel to one side and your twin Jerry Cans on the other, as a 900 R16 that far out back along with 40lt of water is asking a lot of one center upright... especially when its open. The rear outer sections of the rear X member are only 2mm steep sheet folded.. I used a piece of 12mm across the rear of the X member for additional support and to carry/incorporate a receiver style tow socket.. Im glad I did as I think the rear X member would have failed by now. Re lifting a wheel to that height, I roll mine onto a block of wood, then flip it onto the tailgate and upright it. Once its here they are fairly easy to lift and position on a carrier.
If AJ would get his arse into gear and get himself and his mate on here, he'd have some pics of a lift and flip design his friend has made on the back of the Td5 101 I believe.

Thanks for the input Simon. My thoughts below, let me know if you disagree. It's obviously only early stages yet but I am trying to avoid the dual swing arm carrier so am putting more effort in to arguing for the single set-up as opposed to dual.

I'm comfortable the car hub can take the load, the FIL has a simlar design using the same size hub and swing arm on his jeep that has been going for a number of years now. I do tend to agree about the rear cross member. My thoughts are that with it closed and weight supported both sides it should be ok for driving (same as having two swing arms), and swung out its only ever a static load, not going over corrugations etc. The sections of the cross member it attaches to are also tied into the main chassis sections and rear suspension mounting brackets so there's plenty of re-enforcement there.

I've drawn backing plates up which attach onto the back of the cross member and each side uses all 6 existing bolt hole locations (rear bumpers and lifting eyes). Due to how everything is put together its not one single big plate but 3 strips each side with a cut out in one to clear the existing chassis brackets.

In terms of how far out the wheel comes its drawn conservatively for the purposes of purchasing materials. As it is there's probably 100mm it can be taken in closer to the car, more again if I move the sub axle closer in but I'm building in plenty of clearance for the rear tail gate brackets.

For lifting I am going to have a small lever block which will attach to the overhanging section. I'm yet to finalise that part, I'm not sure if I want that to drop down close to the wheel and use a removable bracket or simply build it to the required height for clearance (as shown). I'm leaning towards the later option currently. It will also get the work lights mounted up there.

Originally Posted by stuee

After seeing what yourself and Gav have had to do I'm not so keen on the D1 mod. I was happy with the adapting the bracket on the pedal link end but welding extensions to the booster pushrod is probably not within my capabilities. Before my booster failed the first time and after my discs had bedded in I was quite happy with the braking performance of the 101.

If the bakelite collar fails again (I hope not because it was running the original collar after the rebuild so hopefully the new one lasts much longer) I may look at the possibility but the type 50 servo is a much more straightforward change out and will give similar braking performance to original so I'd probably go with that.

I didn't end up welding anything. I removed the aluminium spacer plate on the booster and the height if the pushrod was then where it needed to be. It would greatly improve your brakes - disks take much more force to operate. It would transform you vehicle.

Also, regarding seats. I've relented and stuck defender seats in mine - heaps more comfortable. . Can drive it for hours now without needing a break. It's SWMBO or the dogs that slow me down now. . Just have to find some decent canvas seat covers now to cover them up as they look bloody terrible....