Printable View
I have thought about this too. For its original application for a powered trailer. Here is a pic from underneath from my thread Chev V8 to MSA.
You can see how they mesh and drive no matter which range is selected.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/10/381.jpg
I have not bolted up the bottom PTO here but you can see the sprocket on the mainshaft gear
i always confused when it comes to gearboxs/t-case and PTO......
having driven 6x6's for thousands of km's i thought the vacumm centre diff lock provided positive drive to all three axles when required and the additional PTO drive hanging off the bottom provided drive for the winch only??
will have a closer look at it all tomorrow night
Then I have no idea what this thread is about.
You don't want a PTO for an LT95 that has a 6X6 output fitted.
You don't need a 6X6 output for a LT95.
i thought the 6x6 or powered trailer drive was taken from the rear output at the top of the tfr case (where you put the overdrive). From this position you get whatever speed the 4x4 drive gets. If you want to run a drum winch at the front you use the chain driven pto from the bottom of the tfr case. If you have a 101 the pto to drive the chassis mounted winch also comes off the bottom of the tfr case but is gear driven with a 90 degree change in drive so the drive comes out the side not front or rear.
The 101 powered trailer drive comes out the top pto spot and I think the perenties are the same but I am not sure.
I would have thought that copying the 6x6 perenti drive arrangement would be easiest.
Garry
As I read it, Bill wants to know if anyone has made their own 6x6 LT95 from a couple of 4x4 LT95s.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
Sounds like a good project Bill - how much to make one for me while you are at it?
The 6x6 LT95 setup is ingenious, and far better than any other alternative IMHO.
Wagoo
It has been so long since I opened a LT95 (1984) I had forgotten the peculiarities. Serves me right. (Thanks 123rover50 for reminding me.)
However, yes I have purchased a bottom power take off for a LT95 from Anthony Johnson in Melbourne to swap for an LT230 PTO with a so called mate for his perentie prototype for which he has the bottom PTO but I've never received the LT230 PTO (nor the LT85/LT230 gearbox I paid for) in return. So I do know the price and rarity of them.
Back to my original post, in the absence of a genuine bottom PTO, you should be able to use a second mainshaft gear in constant mesh with the middle gear on the intermediate shaft running on a parallel shaft mounted to the bottom cover.
Diana
B100dy keyb0ard:mad: Y0u g0t it in 0ne Ben; I've g0t a cu0p1e 0f spare transmissi0ns and wi11 have a bit 0f a p1ay this aftern00n,The way I see it at this stage, a permanent1y driven PT0 is re1ative1y easy t0 c0bb1e up fr0m spare bits and b0bs,Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Making it disc0nnectab1e is where it w0u1d pr0bab1y inv01ve a bit m0re w0rk and extra bits machined up,
Wag00,
Bill, there it a great thread on Outerlimits about home made disconnects (for toyotas, but they may be able to be grafted onto a landie.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
What would it drive like and what would the tyre wear be like if you made both rear wheels constant drive and the front axle selectable?
Ben,Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
I think a lightish relatively long wheelbase vehicle would be ok with permanent tandem drive, I used to operate my old 6x6 in permanent tandem drive even though I had a disconnect, and that was quite short , anyway, after a bit of measuring and juggling of parts I would guess that anyone with a lathe and a drill could make this without the need to have any shafts made or any resplining done.
I don't have a lathe, and it would be some time before i can borrow the use of one, but I estimate a machinist could probably make up one of these in a few hours once firm dimensions have been worked out: i hope you can follow my general description of the conversion as i see it: I’ve left out minor details to reduce confusion at this early stage
basically, a complete front output housing with shaft, centre difflock dog clutch and vacuum unit gets bolted to a spare rear output housing via a 4 cm thick adaptor plate: a scrap centre diff carrier, internal condition not important, gets its rear bearing journal cut off and all the splines except the ones for the difflock machined off so that the front bearing journal can be machined back about 80mm closer to the gear flange:this bearing has a bigger id to fit over the slightly reduced diameter of the difflock splines, but same OD as the standard rear output bearing (this bearing takes rearward end thrust) an additional and identical bearing in the original location on the nose of the centre diff carrier is fitted in the adaptor plate. The other side of the carrier that had its journal cut off gets bored out to accept the outer race of a tapered roller bearing, the inner race, sleeved down to fit the gearbox mainshaft tail bearing journal: with the other 2 bearings 80mm apart, this bearing probably won't see much side thrust, but will take forward end thrust. The bolt on low range gear gets fitted to the opposite side of the carrier flange, with a machined up spigot ring with unbrako bolts. With this arrangement the driveflange for the 3rd axle propshaft sits about 30cm behind the rear face of the transfercase. This obviously has disconnect via the difflock unit.
Wagoo
Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
Bill - I think I follow all that. However it was bloody hard to read in capitals and 000s. Happy to post you an old keybard I have spare if you need one?