Thread: 101 original lump vs a Diesel alternative

Originally Posted by The ho har's

Lardy, just a thought here, some are being SOOO negative about the 101, me included, with the heat issue


Just think when you get it, it will be the best fun ride you have had for ages

It won't take the smile of your dial it is a cool truck to drive and the waves form everyone is incredible

Mrs hh

Please don't think I was having a go.

I'm just bloody jealous

Originally Posted by The ho har's

Harry is well over 6' also, he finds the 101 alright to drive, the good thing about the defender is it has the flaps in the front, the 101 doesn't and that's where I think you will find it's fault, air rushing in weather hot or cold is good but the 101's downfall OH we are spoilt with the series and defenders vents aren't we soo we are working on getting more air in via alternative vents Will keep you posted

Mrs hh

Got you regarding the air intake but with that great big space in the bulkhead for the rad is there no way in to the cab using plastic eminox?
Also the truck is still in brissy ;-( they said because it don't run they are putting it on a low loader and should be here next Friday double ;-(
But on a good note I think a roof mounted air con could be choice :-)


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Insulate the engine cover and properly seal the join around its edge and not much heat gets in. Take the door tops off and there is plenty of air flow through. In hot weather when I have to drive with the sides on and door tops on, I open the little flap behind the drivers seat and as long as the windows are open there is reasonable airflow.

Ron has some nice flaps in his footwells that work well.

Garry

Originally Posted by lardy

Do a few 10 hour drives in the 101 and you will know where i am coming from.
Well as I have a 130 defender no air con and live in temperatures up to 49 degrees (usually driving in an average of 36-40) what would the difference be between that and the 101?
Also I drive the 130 to Perth and back around 2000km each way and it gets a bit warm, would there be much difference between the two, apart from the 101 should give me a better posture as I have Ankolosing spondylitis in c3&c4 which is exasibated by the defenders roof line and not helped that novacs put a tinted windscreen in which I have to duck below at night grrrr!
I really don't need a bloody tinted band on the windscreen as I am 6'3" and don't get sun issues (gee thanks auto glazier company)
I certainly could not drive a disco mk1 anymore.
So I reckon the 101 will benefit me long term as my condition deteriorates over time (something to look forward to smiley face not)
Plus I am a happily single male and have cash to invest in a long term project as the 101 has never been registered in Australia I can go nuts, it would be preferable at this stage as once it has been over the pits it all gets very emotional.
I am of the mindset of a modern injected petrol or a diesel.
I also want to strip the interior guts and refurb with lighter materials and rebuild the rear body out of ali box section opposed to the steel that is in there already there and then re apply the skin.......anyone looked at Zeus engineering brake discs and pads (rotors to you) not perfect because you have to trim them.


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Everyone to there own.
Read the old posts as the information is great.
101 cabin vents are no problem, I have them, they work.
I until recently owned a TDI defender 130 and a 101 at the same time.
On both vehicles I have done long stretches behind the wheel.
your dreaming.
100kph after a few hours in the 101 .....fitted with the standard motor , let alone a diesel....the noise will start to get to you as will the stiff suspension, the drafts, the not being able to hear the radio.
Tall drivers are not ideal for 101s and most remove the spare wheel so the drivers seat can be mounted further back
Push a old series 2a long at 100kph for a few hours and thats the story.

I am not trying to push anything ..........but I have been around abit and as I said each to there own.
The best mod you could do to a 101 besides some cabin vents is a Zeus disc brake conversion , overdrive and a detroit in the bum.
101s great vehicles, modern vehicles easier to live with.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Insulate the engine cover and properly seal the join around its edge and not much heat gets in. Take the door tops off and there is plenty of air flow through. In hot weather when I have to drive with the sides on and door tops on, I open the little flap behind the drivers seat and as long as the windows are open there is reasonable airflow.

Ron has some nice flaps in his footwells that work well.

Garry

WHAT LITLE FLAP????..remembering our has had the drivers seat pushed back for extra leg room. Insulate the engine cover? ours is 10ml thick and still heat gets in have put seals around everything as well . We are working on Disco airvents that can be turned of in cool weather, not that happens much up here and that's when you open the boot on the gear stick for hot air

Mrs hh

I'm in an advantage then Ron, the spare is kept in the side locker, plus the right hand stretcher bed has a cavity of about five foot and about three foot wide that used to contain two oxygen canisters happy days for either a fuel tank or gas tank which ever way I go


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Originally Posted by The ho har's

WHAT LITLE FLAP????..remembering our has had the drivers seat pushed back for extra leg room. Insulate the engine cover? ours is 10ml thick and still heat gets in have put seals around everything as well . We are working on Disco airvents that can be turned of in cool weather, not that happens much up here and that's when you open the boot on the gear stick for hot air

Mrs hh

The flap in the canvas just behind the driver that has to be lifted up to get the spare in and out.

The standard insulation is Ok for UK climates but not up to scratch for Aust - I replaced mine with better and thicker stuff - keeps the heat down and reduces noise substantially. I found that the rubbers around the engine cover left big gaps at some spots where the heat was getting in - also around the gear lever. I put extra sealing in which has cut down the temp in summer - and stops the cold in winter.

The temperature in my cabin with canvas down etc used to be 15 -20 degrees hotter than outside in summer and regularly was over 50 degrees. Now, with the revised insulation the temp inside is down to about 5 degrees over outside.

I also have a revised heater system that takes a combination of outside air and internal air and blows it out via a 3 speed fan into the cabin - with the heater is off puts a reasonable amount of fresh air into the cabin. The heater struggles a bit in winter down here as the matrix is a bit smaller than the original. The interior needs some insulation on it as the cold does come in through the sheet metal in winter.

Cheers

Garry

Garry

For winter had you thought about installing a barrier between the cargo area and the cab area? You could make something up a little like the fume/light curtain in the FFR, perhaps with a transperant section in the middle, that would keep the warmed air around the front seat occupants instead of trying to warm the entire body. It would make the too small heater seem more efficient.

It could be secured with straps around the hood sticks.

Diana