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Thread: Disc Brakes

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
    Posts
    3,375
    Watching this thread with interest... Always thought there was limited room behind a std 101 wheel.... I always wanted to see a huge disk and calliper on mine but there never was the room... Saw these wheels on a 101 and think they look ok tho.....
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    Back of 101 hub

    This shows the factory pressing in and rolling in of metal to hold standard wheel stud

    This shows standard wheel stud removed.

    I used a No2 thor copper hammer to knock them out.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    You must find a solid and hard flat surface.
    In my case I used a flat area on the back of my vice.
    I covered it in a layer of white rag as it is extremely important that the back surface of the hub is not damaged while hitting out the stud.
    It takes some very hard hits of the copper hammer to remove the stud.
    You must hit everything squarely and carefully.

    This is the hub after the stud is removed......notice the rolled in metal which is now broken out.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    This is the new stud which needs to be fitted.
    the new stud has a shoulder on it.

    It fits this way around.

    The back six flat spots of the hub must be very carefully and lightly filed free of any high spots.

    Use a large fine tooth file....remember high spots only.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    You will need plenty of Loctite for these new studs and use plenty of it.


    You must use the 101s wheel nuts to fit the new studs.
    I found the thread on my wheel nuts had closed up with use on the tapered part of it and they need to be cleaned up thread wise so they would spin easily on the new stud threads.
    you will need a 16x 1.5 tap to do this.

    Use the loctite on clean threads and fit the disc and adaptor to the 101 hub by evenly threading in the new studs doing the last bit of tighting evenly from stud to stud.
    You must work quickly before the loctite hardens.
    You use 2 of the cleaned up 101 wheel nuts locked together to turn the new studs.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    You will need 2 x 1/1/16 spanners or 2x 27mm spanners of good quality to lock together the wheel nuts and thread them in the the disc and adaptor.


  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,180
    Great posts Ron! Will come in helpful when I get mine.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    This is a trial fitting of the caliper mounting plate.
    The surface it is bolted to should be cleaned up.
    Zeus say to throw away the original spring washers and just loctite the bolts that hold it.
    It must be remembered those bolt holes go though into the CV housing and the threads must be oil tight, so loctite is a good idea.


  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    The standard CV oil level plug is removed.
    A trial fitting of the caliper needs to take place.
    The top lug on the caliper needs metal removed for it to fit and the bolt hole to line up.
    A 8mm allen key with a ball end is very helpful in doing up the caliper bolts.




  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,755
    I marked what was needed to be removed with a texta and used a die grinder with a tunsten carbide cutter to remove the metal.
    The difference between a caliper with metal removed and not removed is this.



    The Zeus supplied plugs for the oil level needs a M55 star drive to fit it.

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