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Ron, did you ever bother painting the spacer plate or hub face to stop them rusting together? I see rust forming on my hub face and have also seen bit of rust form on one of the caliper mounts. Most of the bits its cosmetic only, but it would be nice for the spacer plate not to fuse with the hub.
Also any secrets for closing the lock washer on the outer hub nut. I found that to be a bugger of a job.
No I didn't paint the spacer,but my hub was painted.
mine has not rusted because my vehicle is in use and the brakes get hot.
I don't intend to remove the spacer so I am not to worried if it gets rusty.
My 101 has a anti rust system which deposits oil on most surfaces.....the C/V joint.
If you find a very large screw driver you should be able to get the tip of the large screw driver behind the lock tab and lever the lock tab outwards towards the outer lock nut by using the inner edge of the hub as a fulcrum on the large screw driver blade.( should get it about half way bent around)
That will start the lock tab on its way out wards.
I then find a metal drift with say a 4mm dia flat end on it and hammer the drift onto the tab trying to get under/behind it to finish the bending of the tab onto the lock nut.
Using the drift makes for a neat job finishing off bending the lock tab on to the lock nut.
What I did find was the acid off my fingers did very quickly cause a surface rust on the disc which very quickly disappeared with use.
Thanks guys really useful posts. Myself and a local 101 owner are contemplating disc brakes on our vehicles and your experience will be so useful to us!
Hi Guys
Just to let you know that cookey has sourced a new calliper for his Series LR disk brake conversion, the good part about this calliper is that the calliper housing is less bulky so clearance issues are less of a problem, in addition there are two callipers from the same manufacturer both 4 pot on the same mounting plate but the pistons on one are 47mm and the other 35mm. This makes 4 wheel ventilated disks an easier conversion without the problems of fore-aft balance.
The size of the caliper may be useful for the 101 conversions.
Watch this space.
Diana
Whilst under the 101 today, my mind was thinking brake upgrades... Ron, when you fitted the disks to the front, did you then shift he front back plates and wider shoes to the back? Just wondering if that would be of any benefit....?
I don't think you have to swap anything around, I think ,but not certain the wider shoes fit straight on the rear .
I think I have done that when I first got my 101.
At the end of the day.......no gain.
The backing plates need to centre the rear shoes at 1 1/4" while the front shoes need to be at 1 1/2", the problem is that the shoes for the 3" are "double leading" while the rears are "leading-trailing" so without manufacturing your own backing plates and leading-trailing 3" shoes it can't be done. Better to spend your time making rear disks.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
I must have been thinking of the brake drums.
Front to rear they are different P/Ns, but still interchange.
The rear drum is exactly the same as the front , but is not machined for the extra width of the fronts, but the surface of the rear drum is still good enough to run the wider front shoes on.
At the end of the day no gain.
Why do we need to make disc conversions when someone else has done one and it is proven and works on both front and rear ?
I think the UK price to be very good.
The price of a disc rotor replacement of a late model Jap 4WD would cover the price of the Zeus disc brake kit.
As this thread proves any problems with the Zeus kit can be worked around easily.
Not worth the effort to do it locally and until you look at the front of a 101 very closely you will realise it can only be done a certain way and clearences are very, very tight and standard Landrover calipers from other landrover models will not fit.
I think Zeus were very clever to work it all out in the first place and get it to work.