Con wire supplies the cable end forks too...........you just have to ask them to be suppliedQuote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
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Con wire supplies the cable end forks too...........you just have to ask them to be suppliedQuote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
Oh well, I asked Conwire to supply exactly what they had supplied you, so I didn't even think they wouldn't come with the cable, until thy didn't. Not a big issue, I have time to sort that out before I fit the winch.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
All installed, fairly straight forward. I ended up operating the linkage from the bottom so the levers are all back in their normal positions, but I'm not very happy with the operation - it is very stiff due to the amount of room you have to lever off on that side.
How is everyone else's? I'm thinking I might start from scratch rather than use the linkages that came with them. I have seen some pics on the 101 Club forum where they make up a whole lever that acts directly on the overdrive actuating rod. It looks like it gives better mechanical advantage and operates in the correct (levers back) manner. I would imagine the throw of the lever to be slightly longer though, but I'm not happy leaving it as it is.
Cheers - Gav
You need to set up the linkages at the rear - I have my gearbox cover insulated so the linkage had to hang down to get clearance - hence push forward on the lever.Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
Garry
My OD goes into OD quickly and easily.
Going from OD to direct drive is a slow notchy affair with almost a stop in the neutral going though.
If I remember correctly garrycols was very much the same, but much shorter handle stroke due to him using a winch lever to operate it.
Using the OD is a bit stiff at first.....see how it settles down.
It also takes a little while to get use to the way the OD goes into OD quickly, but is much slower to get out.
The detent spring on the OD shift rod can be adjusted for tension.......lock nut and allen head grub screw???????
How big were the radius of the curves in the OD cable ????????
Cable radius is fine, no tight turns and it operates very smoothly when not attached to the OD. When I got the OD, it had a big handle on it that goes through the floor of whatever it came out of. With that handle attached, it is smooth and easy to use, so it is just the lack of mechanical advantage to overcome the detent - I will see if I can slack that off a bit and see how I go.
Another way to do it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/07/1329.jpg
I used the handle linkage that came with the OD, but shorten slightly???? the vertical rod pointing up towards the floor above the OD.
When setting mine up I made a fan tunnel lever out of plywood and drilled multiple holes in it so on the final design I had perfect leverage and handle position etc.
I think I even drilled multi holes in the OD shift linkage for the clevis pin for the same reason.
My system does have a lot of leverage at the expense of handle/lever travel.
Garrycols set up worked just as well with the shorter handle/lever travel.
Yep, that is similar to another photo I have seen showing that arrangement, I will try to fiddle with what I have and see if I ca make that work before making something new up, but it gives me options.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
The action does loosen up with use but does remain notchy. I still have a interim lever (metal broom handle with a round Lada knob - much nicer feel in the hand) after the one I made broke so I have played around with its length. Needs to be long but still clear the dash.
Changing into O/D is not issue at all - smooth as slik. Changing out is more problematic - either a pregnant pause in O/D nautral or just double shuffle it with the clutch and a slow deliberate action.
Garry