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Your outriggers will be fine.. I've had most of the weight of my 101 sat on my tanks when we were sat atop a sand dune with the 4 circular things no longer touching terra firma.. ;) Re drain plugs, recon I have a few blanking plugs that we take out of tractors when we put hydraulic fittings in.. Could post a few over if u like.. :)
I've run into a small problem, I didn't bother to take any notice of how the back rubber mount sits on the old tank before removing it all. I'm at the point where I need to weld that mount on the new tank and I can't figure out where it needs to go!
Doh!
Can someone please post a pic of their factory rear fuel tank mount please that shows where the rubbers sit in relation to the chassis and tank.
Thanks. :)
I figured it out eventually.... :D
Ok, so the tank is almost finished. Today I welded the other baffle in, drilled and tapped 2 holes (one for the breather and one for the return), welded in the other end, made and welded on both mounts (after I figured out where the rubbers went on the back mount).
Then I plugged up one hole and stuck a valve in the other and put 10PSI of air pressure in it and got the squirty bottle out with soapy water to look for leaks. Only found one - where the end of the weld joined the start, so I ground that back and re welded that bit - no more bubbles from any joint.
Good start, so I took the plug out, stuck another fitting in it and now I have it hooked to my manometer for the evening. I'll check it in the morning - fingers crossed...:D
Pics - the front mount finished and welded on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/08/449.jpg
The rear mount finished and welded on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/08/450.jpg
The manometer set up. I expect it to drop a bit as the air cools tonight, but only a bit, so as long as it's not on zero I'll be quite happy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/08/451.jpg
So, if this is still ok in the morning, it's onto fitting the filler, drilling the holes for the sender and fuel pump, priming, painting and back in the 101!
And if it's not I may have to think of another way to find the leaks... I don't have anything big enough to submerge the whole tank in, and I don't really want to fill it with water and hydrostatically test it either, so if it leaks tonight, I'm open to suggestions. :D
RedKote the inside. I would do it even with no leaks. It will help with rust on the inside.
Thanks - the old tank is bare metal inside and only rusted through from the outside where it is soldered into the cradle. The new tank is twice as thick as the old one too so maybe in 80 years it may become an issue. :)
But I like the idea, and it would be good insurance. Do you have to order it online or does anyone stock it?
I think from reading other posts that mr and mrs ho har have the stuff.
Cheers Rod
Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app
Just had a look for it - ordered some. :)
Dam good job there Gav.
PVC solvent works well as a liner.
I have just recently done a couple of series tanks myself.
Cheers, Mick.
Well, not sure what to make of the evenings readings. The manometer dropped 3" last night, so I'm not sure if that's just the air temp that's caused this or if there has been a tiny leak somewhere...
With nearly 10PSI in the tank, I can't get any bubbles to form on any weld, so I think I'll press on and cut the other holes and finish it off. I've ordered some redkote so I'll use that as my insurance.
No idea how I'm going to spin the tank around to spread that stuff out yet - I can see a custom bracket on the engine stand and the engine crane on the other in my foreseeable future... :D
I need to do similar to my tank. I'm using POR 15.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
Let's chat. Two heads and two engine stands may be better than one.