Gav's 101.

I ended up getting one of the capillary oil temp gauges from John Cradock through ebay. Bid for a few before I finally got one. I steered clear of the water temp gauges due to the price and the reports I kept reading that they did not fit properly, but as has been pointed out it may work if routed differently.

I have sourced a series 3 electric water temp gauge for time being and my intention is to take my dead water and oil gauges to a local instrument restorer to bring back to life at some point in the future when I have money to throw about.

I also have a VDO electric gauge that will sit in one of the three 52mm holes as a backup gauge (or rather a more reliable gauge).

If you're looking for new bulbs for the instrument cluster I sourced modern fittings and replacements from here:
Electrical Miscellany Page 2

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Originally Posted by stuee

I steered clear of the water temp gauges due to the price and the reports I kept reading that they did not fit properly, but as has been pointed out it may work if routed differently.

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That's because the short ones are for a lightweight. The 101 gauges ar longer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

That's because the short ones are for a lightweight. The 101 gauges ar longer.

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In addition to that some of the threads I read on the club forum were saying that the gauges they were buying were labelled specifically as a 101 gauge, yet turned out to be lightweight gauge. I wonder if this is because there is more 101 owners chasing the capillary gauges over lightweight owners so sellers are labelling them differently?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stuee

In addition to that some of the threads I read on the club forum were saying that the gauges they were buying were labelled specifically as a 101 gauge, yet turned out to be lightweight gauge. I wonder if this is because there is more 101 owners chasing the capillary gauges over lightweight owners so sellers are labelling them differently?

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Could be. I recently bought some parts the seller advertised as 101 (amongst other vehicles). Turns out they were from a lightweight and were different to the part on the 101.
I kept the parts. I'll have to find a lightweight to put them on now.

You lot have got me worried now - mine are still in the boxes and I haven't checked the length of the capillary tubes.

Ignorance is bliss. :(

Garry

Wow, a lot goes on here while I'm not looking...:D

I have a question regarding fitting the overdrive I have purchased. The cable for this is the same as the hi/low cable right? Just had a look for one and Craddocks want nearly 100 quid, but the 101 Club shop has them for around 40.

Hi/Lo control cable - Detailed item view - 101ClubShop

Now I have signed up and paid my fees, but I have no idea how long it will be before I get a member number. How long does it take to get something from them anyway?

Just thinking if it is going to take ages to get my member number that someone could buy one on my behalf, or if someone has a good or new one they could 'lend' me and I'll replace it with a new one when I can get one?

I know I'm being impatient, but once I get the overdrive, I will have an overwhelming urge to bung it straight in...:D

Also, any advice on fitting one would be appreciated. The cable, lever and mechanism should be fine - is there anything I need to look out for when fitting the unit to the back of the box? Not quite sure what is the go as far as that is concerned. What needs to come off/out/in etc.

Oh, and is there a lever that is readily available, or is it easier just to fabricate one from scratch?

Cheers - Gav

Just got a PM on the 101 club forum from Les - he is sending me the Build and Military history for my 101! Excited!:)

No longer a member of the 101 club due to their poor parts service and draconian attitudes to the running of their forum.

Unless things have changed you might have to wait for a while for your parts - if they arrive. :wasntme:

I got my cable made locally (Milperra in Sydney) by a cable maker.

Installing the O/D is straight forward - see attached doc if you don't already have it. The circlips can be a pain and make sure you tie everything with a piece of cotton where you can so that they do not fall down inside the tfr case.

On mine I used the winch lever and made a new winch lever and moved the new winch lever to the far left, the hi/lo lever in the middle and the O/D lever closest to the driver. However when the winch lever was used it was too weak and snapped off just under the knob - that was four years ago and the temporary metal broom stick that I used with a Lada Niva tfr case knob on top is still there - looks dog ugly but works as the lever needs to be long to get leverage - the O/D is longest, then Hi/Lo and winch is shortest as in the dark you would not want to try and change from Hi to Low on the move.

I have set mine up so that normal drive is with the lever to the rear and O/D is forward - so that all levers are back in the normal position. If I remember Ron has his O/D lever the opposite way around. In my setup the O/d activating lever at the end of the cable on top of the Tfr case points down and on Rons it points up - on mine the lever touches the tray floor if it is up - as mine is down it clears everything but has a kink in the end of the cable.

Clear as mud - until you go to install - I hope you got everything with the O/D including the tfr case brackets and levers.

I don't have any pics of mine but Ron has some of his - my back end lever arrangement is a mirror of his.

Garry

Should be some old threads and pics somewhere on this site if you look.
All the shift cables including the park brake cable we have able to get made in Sydney by con wire.
I do have some specs, be it is easier just to give them a sample and clearly explain you don't want the old cable chopped up to make a new one.( they are temped to do this to save time)
My O/D was no problem to fit, but according to different people it helps if you leave to main gearbox in 3rd gear ? when doing the job as it stops something falling out of the gearbox????

Take note I fitted new cables though out and the quality of use for hi/lo range and winch improved out of sight...............the old cables after 35 years bind up.
Replacing the short parkbrake cable and fitting a grease nipple on the bellcrank under the drivers floor allows the park brake to hold the 101 on any hill by applying it with my little finger pulling on the lever.

As Garrycol has stated our lever arrangements are opposite to one another so to speak.


Direct drive
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/06/1261.jpg

Overdrive enguaged
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/06/1262.jpg