Cool - I'm happy to share some details off line if you want some feedback on how mine went together and how it works on the road - will touch base on this once I'm done.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
Printable View
Cool - I'm happy to share some details off line if you want some feedback on how mine went together and how it works on the road - will touch base on this once I'm done.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
Ok, got a bit more done tonight but work is seriously getting in the way of 101 time! [biggrin]
One of the things I thought I'd look at when doing the brakes is the brake booster - I fitted a D1 dual diaphragm booster a couple of years back and it transformed how the vehicle stopped, but it isn't without its issues. Mounting it to the pedal assembly is pretty easy but as it is much thicker, it pushes the master cylinder back quite a bit - to the point that you have to take just a whisker off the back of it to clear the steering column bracket - no huge issue, but something that bugged me a bit. Also, I found getting the speedo cable to fit properly and work was nearly impossible due to the extra width of the unit, although I know others that have had no issue with this. Lastly the D1 booster has quite a wide opening where the MC mounts which necessitates slotting the MC holes quite a bit - actually slotting them to the outside - again, no real issue as I made up some large thick tabs that directed the force of the mounting nuts back towards the centre of the MC.
Anyhow, I'm having another crack this time and bought an 8" aftermarket dual diaphragm booster to trial. If it doesn't work how I want it, I'll go back to the D1 booster. FOr a start it has 4 mounting bolts and bolts up to the pedal plate easily and will be more secure, particularly when I make up some plates to go behind it. Secondly it is 1/2" thinner so it's bough the MC back so it doesn't foul the steering column bracket. It is also a lot narrower so the speedo cable would fit much better although I've since converted to a GPS speedo so this is not so much of an issue for me. I've installed a 7/8" bore MC so hoping this will make up for the assistance the lack of area on this booster gives me compared to the D1 unit. Pedal travel is still unknown though, so may have to go back to a 1" bore, but time will tell.
So a few pics.
Mounted up on the bench.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7874/...0e800b47_h.jpgIMG_0560 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr
Temporarily fitted to check clearances - it fits very well, better than the D1 unit.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7838/...3c1fcafc_h.jpgIMG_0561 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr
A close up showing the fit on the booster - the holes were filed out around 1mm each side to get this to fit, so much happier than the D1 setup.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7803/...bc93e3c4_h.jpgIMG_0562 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr
And with the steering bracket fitted - everything clears without issue.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/...013149fc_h.jpgIMG_0563 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr
So it FITS better, but it's not all beer and skittles (mmmm, beer...). The input to the booster needs a new bit making - not a huge issue apart from the thread size on the rod which I cannot work out - it is a fine thread - not UNF or Metric, so not sure - my local bolt supplier couldn't work it out either, so a bit stumped on that one and need to do some more research. The output rod is not adjustable so I also need to make up a rod extension for this (but you have to do that with the D1 booster too).
Lastly its performance is currently unknown, so until I get everything finished I'm not going to know if it is good enough. That could be a while too as I've now got all the steering out of the vehicle, so road testing won't happen until the PS conversion is complete - which will be a few weeks I think.
Anyhow, will get the other side of the discs on, finish off the upfit of this booster and get it all back together so I can crack on with the steering. Hopefully have all this complete by the end of the coming weekend.
Hmmm, the intermerwebby thingy says the thread on the booster rod should be 3/8 National Fine but the bolt guy says it wasn’t. I think I need to find a bolt with that thread and try it myself. If it is, an off the shelf clevis will work...
I got a solution to that![biggrin][biggrin][thumbsupbig]Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
Gav is the smaller diameter master cylinder going to have enough capacity to drive your Defender brake calipers?
A little more done tonight, but no pics. Fabricobbled an end for the pushrod - it turned out to be 3/8 UNF it was just the nut off it was a bit **** and needed the threads cleaned up. Drilled and tapped a hole in some 3/4” stock and shaped it to suit and drilled the cross pin hole. 20mm off the pushrod length and it fit perfectly.
Put everything back together and remounted it without the MC to check push rod setting out the front of the booster. The adjuster on the end needed to come out a bit but there was plenty of length to do this. Bolted up the MC and tested. Foot flat to the floor operates the MC to about 2mm from full throw so absolutely perfect.
So, although performance isn’t know I can definitely say that this fits HEAPS better than a D1 booster. It also is mounted by 4 bolts so much stronger overall rigidity of the pedal box too. I still have a couple of plate to make up to further strengthen it, then I’ll assemble it for the last time - I am very happy with the result. 👍
This is the unit I used - Brake Booster 8" Dual Diaphragm Black
Unknown yet, but I’ll give it a whirl. I’ll have to check it with a heavy load in the back to make sure when the rear drums are allowed to work, there is enough fluid to operate everything. Can always stick the 1” one back in if needed, but as this one is brand new, thought I’d try it. Nothing to lose but an hour of bleeding brakes. 😁😇Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
While your calipers are split, you can measure the dia of the pistons. Assume a 0.5mm gap between pad and rotor and you could calculate the fluid volume required to engage the brakes. You'll need to allow for the rear drums too.
You can then work out the displacement required on the cylinder to suit which will also tell you where the pedal will be when the brakes engage.
Keep your calculations as you can show your VASS engineer these as evidence of compliance.
Hi mate, great to see you here! Yeah I started doing that but had a very strong G&T instead so will have to try again some other time 😇. I’m unsure of the rear wheel cylinder diameters, but calipers have 4x46mm pistons x 2. How much travel of the pistons do you allow for? It’s bugger all in reality as the pads basically stay in contact with the disc at all times so 0.5mm sounds about right, so I’d actually assume very little required for the discs, so the 7/8” bore on the MC should work better for a disc brake setup than drums.Quote:
Originally Posted by roobar_and_custard
Hows the Volvo coming along? It’s been a few years since an update! 👍
Small update. Got one side completely finished, apart from the short brake line (old one was a bit too short) which my local brake guy will have done early next week.
Got the brake pedal assembly complete - with strengthening plate, which made a huge difference. That’s all back together, adjusted and installed back in the vehicle.
Lastly after soaking the steering relay for a week, I again put the weight of the vehicle on it and got the hammer out - to my surprise the first light tap lining it up made it jump straight out. 👍.
So onto the other side tomorrow or maybe a bit of fabricating for the power steering - will have to see how badly buried the welder is first... 😇