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Thread: Gav's 101.

  1. #781
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    So you would definitely recommend that after market brake booster over the D1 booster - I was surprised to see how cheap it was.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #782
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    As far as fitment goes it’s a no brainer, heaps easier to fit and heaps less modification required. Performance is the only unknown yet - that will be a few weeks before it’s known as although the brakes will be finished by this time next week, the PS will take a bit of time and I’ve already got all the steering components out.

    My guess is that it will be substantially better than standard, but maybe not quite as good as a D1 unit as it is a bit smaller.

    Will report back back on performance when I can - unless someone wants to do this on theirs in the meantime - It could be done in a day.👍
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #783
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    Not much done today, did some prep work for the PS - can’t get the bloody arm off the steering box to remove it. Have it soaking with some rost off and a tie rod end separator wedged in there to see what happens. Tried heating it up, it’s on pretty tight. No room for a pitman arm puller either so brute force seems to be the only way. I could cut the thing off but I really don’t want to destroy it if I don’t have to, even though I have a spare.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #784
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Not much done today, did some prep work for the PS - can’t get the bloody arm off the steering box to remove it. Have it soaking with some rost off and a tie rod end separator wedged in there to see what happens. Tried heating it up, it’s on pretty tight. No room for a pitman arm puller either so brute force seems to be the only way. I could cut the thing off but I really don’t want to destroy it if I don’t have to, even though I have a spare.
    Use a bigger hammer....Gav's 101. Gav's 101. Gav's 101.

  5. #785
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    I’m using the biggest one I have - a 5lb mash hammer.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #786
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Not much done today, did some prep work for the PS - can’t get the bloody arm off the steering box to remove it. Have it soaking with some rost off and a tie rod end separator wedged in there to see what happens. Tried heating it up, it’s on pretty tight. No room for a pitman arm puller either so brute force seems to be the only way. I could cut the thing off but I really don’t want to destroy it if I don’t have to, even though I have a spare.
    Try heating it with a pin point torch on only spot with pressure applied with the separator.

    If you heat the whole thing up the shaft expands too.

    On a RRC (if they're still tight) they come off with a bang, so be careful.

    DL

  7. #787
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    Thanks - haven’t got a heat source that I could pinpoint any heat with. I’ve only got a large butane torch. Oxy set is on my wish list but I bought a bottle of Argon the other day to go with a shiny new AC/DC TIG welder so probably can’t afford another 2 bottles at the moment.

    Have been soaking it in Rost Off for a few days - I’ll take the mash hammer to it again on the weekend. Failing that, I’ll have to destroy it to remove it. I can’t go one further now until it’s out of the way, so have a decision to make on Saturday if I can’t shift it.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  8. #788
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    Have you got two mash hammers? or can you borrow another.

    I have found on a few occasions that hitting it from both sides at the same time will flex it enough to break the rust seal.

    Worth a try, the tricky bit is your co-ordination in hitting both sides together
    Neale

    85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
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  9. #789
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    Unfortunately there is no room to hit it on both sides, it is in a very tight location. There’s only one side I can get a hammer to.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  10. #790
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    FYI, that 7/8" MC your using is LR Part Number 569671 ( per the box the 7/8 MC I ordered from Dingcroft arrived in )

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