They're good. You'd never fit them without tapping the center hole tho. They'd b too big for Stuee's shockers tho having thought about it.. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by puma130tc
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They're good. You'd never fit them without tapping the center hole tho. They'd b too big for Stuee's shockers tho having thought about it.. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by puma130tc
Just measured the shock eyes.
For the originals, the large inner diameter is approx 45mm, the small inner diameter is approx 32mm.
For the ironmans, the large inner diameter is approx 36mm, the small inner diameter is approx 28mm.
For anyone with the superpros, does it look like the bushes would machine easily - i.e drill out a larger hole for the shaft for the standard cruiser and discovery bushings?
This highlights the issues I have had in trying to locate suitable shocks for my 101 in the past. Basically 4wd stuff have eyes that are too small and small trucks have eyes that are too big.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuee
I stayed with my old 101 shocks and to be honest I have no idea whether they are good or bad. I did drive my 101 without shocks as a test and certainly when unloaded there was no difference in the feel of the vehicle when driving it so I doubt shocks actually do much - might be different when loaded though.
Garry
Well I ran into a small problem during the week. When fitting the drivers side front shock there is not enough thread for the 14x2 bolt to bite onto on the lower mounting shaft and it just slips out. The passenger side also felt very loose but plenty to bite and holds the shock on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/04/584.jpg
I'd say this is due to either the lower mounting shafts being full of mud and crap when I first cleaned them which may have caused a lot of the metal to corrode away, or being Land Rover its a different wall thickness to the top shafts which have plenty of metal to bite onto. First attempt to fix will involve metal epoxy but if that doesn't work a long bolt will be able to be utilised and I can throw a washer and nut on the other end, or a threaded rod welded into from the opposite side to the shock shaft and a suitable nut. Problem with Good Friday is everything is closed, even Bunnings. Also keen to hear suggestions from others!!
Otherwise the shocks seem to go on just fine:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/04/585.jpg
And a sneaky one of the new steering damper while pretending to show the passenger side front shock.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/04/586.jpg
I definitely notice the difference with shocks on reversing in and out of the driveway, it no longer pogo's when I use the brakes. I need working shocks for rego and the old ones are either seized or non-functioning. I agree its a compromise but if you want the originals then I believe the club is/has been getting some made - the only problem being you need to be a member and fork out what I think is ridiculous money.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
I think on one of my shock mounts I had to go to 16 mm bolts and threads .
Stuee, there are different sizes of tube.. Mine was 50/50, so as Ron said, M16 is the go. Here's a shot of the front LH top on mine... as Im sat beside it and a fire watching the world go by at Melrose! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
Poo. Sounds like I should have gone 16mm from the start. For now I have a M12 180mm bolt and nut doing the job, but I will sort a 16mm tap and new bolts after the turn around at work.
That should work fine! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by stuee