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Thread: Brute's 101

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    Good idea to get heavy cable; the larger the better but make sure it has the right number of strands, or greater. This link might help you Autosparks, World leading supplier of classic car wiring looms check out the table half way down the page.

    Also; go through the entire starter-circuit and make sure that: every connector is tight on its cable and soldered on; that there are earth straps in place for the engine and gearbox; that all connectors, including the earths, are bright and clean and protected from corrosion with something like vaseline; that earth connection points on the chassis are also bright and clean; and that the battery is fully charged and the terminal posts are bright and clean with vaseline on them, just like the cable clamps should be.

    If it doesn't crank faster after all that, start suspecting the starter motor,
    Cheers Charlie

    The only wiring I have at the moment is battery & earth lead to starter, starter sol wire, fuel pump and IP sol. But after reading some of the American Chevvy forums, they reckon you need 2 x minimum 850 CCA batteries and 000 cable whatever that is. I`ve got 2 N70Zs (720 CCA)just connected in parallel by jump leads and the original 101 battery leads which are pretty light even for the Rover V8. I will have a forage around at work tomorrow see what leads I can find. Even if I double them up for now it should help.

  2. #82
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    Heavier battery cable is definately a good idea.

    The cables on the Mazda in my 110 are at least double the diameter of the ones the V8 used. Tried it with the V8 ones to start and it would barely throw it over the compression.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brute View Post
    ... they reckon you need 2 x minimum 850 CCA batteries and 000 cable whatever that is.
    G'day Ian,
    I found this useful page on the web http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uplo..._worksheet.pdf

    It explains electrical wire gauges quite well - the forum you visited was recommending using the heaviest cable available, which is a good thing.

    Any decent auto electrician can look up in their battery-book what is the recommended battery as well.

    Good luck and have fun!

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #84
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    I've doubled up and soldered all my battery cables for now and the motor turns over much better, and the starter isn't getting as hot but still don't really have battery power as a couple of 10 to 15 second bursts and it slows down again. Getting fuel through to the injectors now but don't think I'm cranking it long enough to bleed the air out. I keep trying it and then leaving it on charge for an hour or so.
    Didn't really want to fork out on big batteries until I've made sure it's gonna be a runner but might have to.
    The old rangy fuel pump is probably not up to the job either.

  5. #85
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    Rather than fork out for bigger batteries do you have a car you can can jump start it off? A fully charged battery plus a second car with its engine running may help you get it sorted without forking out the money just yet.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    Rather than fork out for bigger batteries do you have a car you can can jump start it off? A fully charged battery plus a second car with its engine running may help you get it sorted without forking out the money just yet.
    I've tried that Stuee, with the rangy' s twin batteries but didn't seem to make any difference. the big donk just sucks the power

  7. #87
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    One could always try the batteries in series and see what happens?

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan View Post
    One could always try the batteries in series and see what happens?
    I was going to suggest the same! Those V8's need the glow plugs working too.. Having made sure that the high pressure pump is bled properly, look at the back of the pump where the injector lines come out. All 8 are bolted around the rear body of the pump. Locate the highest 2 lines on the pump body and follow those lines back to their respective injectors. Loosen the delivery line at the injector ends. Crank until fuel is seen at the loosened injectors. (You'll know when this is done as white smoke will be emitted from the exhaust. The engine might try and fire up at this point). Tighten injectors. Heat the glow plugs for 10 sec and attempt a start. Remember to have something to hand hovering over the inlet manifold (a mate holding this would be useful at this stage!!). If you have smoke you have fuel and if its healthy it'll fire up. Good luck!
    1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
    1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB

    1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)

    'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
    'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sitec View Post
    I was going to suggest the same! Those V8's need the glow plugs working too.. Having made sure that the high pressure pump is bled properly, look at the back of the pump where the injector lines come out. All 8 are bolted around the rear body of the pump. Locate the highest 2 lines on the pump body and follow those lines back to their respective injectors. Loosen the delivery line at the injector ends. Crank until fuel is seen at the loosened injectors. (You'll know when this is done as white smoke will be emitted from the exhaust. The engine might try and fire up at this point). Tighten injectors. Heat the glow plugs for 10 sec and attempt a start. Remember to have something to hand hovering over the inlet manifold (a mate holding this would be useful at this stage!!). If you have smoke you have fuel and if its healthy it'll fire up. Good luck!
    Thanks guys,
    Thought about that too but was worried about burning the starter out. Suppose it would be ok for a short while.
    The engine is turning over ok now but just not for long enough to bleed every properly.
    Might bite the bullet and buy a couple of 1000 cca batteries. I've found some CAT ones that are similar size to N70z so will fit in one of the other Landies if I don't use them on the 101.
    I assume he glow plugs would just need wiring in parallel

    I will have another go tommorrow

  10. #90
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    Tried running 24v to starter and nearly pooped my pants, the engine turned over so fast that it held the pinion and solenoid engaged and wouldn't turn off . so I frantically unbolted the earth cable.
    On the up side, the oil pressure came up and it smelt like some diesel was going out the exhaust.
    Will try and get down to westrac for some batteries later on, run power to the glow plugs and have another go over the weekend.

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