Thread: Brute's 101

Remove canvas, doors, hood frame, engine and gearbox covers (plus the little panel between) and drop sides and it becomes a lot easier to work on.

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Remove canvas, doors, hood frame, engine and gearbox covers (plus the little panel between) and drop sides and it becomes a lot easier to work on.

It has a hard top fitted that is bolted to the drop down sides, so not quite as easy as that. Getting pretty hot inside too now the weather is warming up.
I ve got the doors off and bottom drop sides, all engine covers and the panels behind the front wheels.

waiting for its space in the shed

Originally Posted by Brute

Take the GM diesel out and put the rover v8 back in.

There are a few 101s running around in Aust with the Chev diesel fitted and they seem to work Ok. So I would stick with what you have to make it work. Main issue will be gearing. I would make sure you have the high speed gears in the tfr case (.996:1 I think), better diff ratios and maybe an overdrive (maybe will hold up with 8 bangs from the engine rather than the bigger bangs for a four cylinder - the O/d will not generally hold up with an isuzu in front.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

The O/d will not generally hold up with an isuzu in front.Garry

They used to explode with the 5.7 Nissan up front! I'd be thinkin that an Auto and LT230 would be the go in the long run, with either 1.222:1 Transfer Case Ratio and 3.5:1 Diffs, or 1.003:1 Transfer Case Ratio and 4.7:1 Diffs.. The latter being the easier option as you just have to change the R&P and not the center, (and would prob suit the GM better as I think they rev to more than 3000 rpm..?). Either way, once you have it running, you'll be able to gauge more what its like. Who knows.. It might be geared up already... A YouTube Vid needed me thinks!

Originally Posted by Brute

Lessons learned tonight
1 who ever thought it was a good idea to put an engine right in the middle of a small truck had no intention of ever working on one.
2 must remember to take ALL the tools I need in with me as it's getting a bit tiresome climbing up and down through the passenger door
3 must work out how to remove the roof and drop sides as it's getting a bit tiresome climbing............

Any way turned the engine over a couple of times by hand, every thing seems ok.
Every where I can get a glimpse inside looks nice and clean so might be in with a chance. have to work out where to take an oil feed and return to the turbo and fit an oil pressure gauge and make a tool for priming the oil pressure down the hole where the vacuum pump goes.
Then suss out some temporary fuel lines.

I know how you feel.
The Stalwart I am playing with.........2 mtrs climb into cabin, then though hatch hole and drop down a mtr.
Lose spanner in to bottom of hull( it doesn't fall though) into oil and crap never to be seen again.
I would find out what diff ratios have been fitted and work with that ....yes 3.54 ratio would be on the money with standard gearbox and transfercase.
With a diesel playing with transfercase ratios I feel would have little effect.
Forget about the overdrive with a diesel.
standard gearbox and transfercase should handle the diesel.

I agree that an auto and LT230 would be the best option long term. Only prob with that is I , d like to give the nokien winch ago and I assume the transfer case pto wouldn't fit the LT 230.

I reckon the bark from the engine is going to compensate for the pitiful top speed in the interim

The original Nokken winch will only work and be fitted to the vehicle under the following conditions.
Use of Transfercase LT95...not the later model one.
The LT 95 transfercase must be set in its original location in the vehicle.
If you look at the drive on a 101 landy for a winch which is set up and working, it is a unusual arrangement and the PTO housing works only with the LT95.
Engine conversions usually move the transfercase farther rearwards\downwards, making fitting of the winch drive difficult.