Thread: Monster 6 Turbo Diesel into a 101.

Originally Posted by bacicat

Top job, the angle on that back prop looks fine.

Are you tempted to stick a jerry can of diesel on top of the engine, jump start it and run it up and down the driveway....

Are you planning to get the prop shafts balanced or see how they go first.

I'd be very tempted but Im still waiting on the drive gear to be welded. He said mid Jan so its making me get on with it all! I'm going to remove the engine again to weld up the mounts and paint the chassis.. (Seriously considering Das's suggestion of lifting the rear tub off to access the middle x member, manufacture the exhaust, clean the chassis and paint it all). I've still got intake pipes, intercooler pipes, compressor plumbing, exhaust and brake to build/fit, and the transfer case to rebuild so have a bit to do yet!

Re props, the rear one is so short there'd be very little issue I think, and the front one I'll see how I go. Prob going to swap it out for a thicker walled Series LWB prop so it might just be temporary. Don't fancy the chances of a prop with 2mm wall thickness up against Cummins torque in lo box!

Ten bolts man!!! Stop messing about and just do it!!!

Nice job otherwise.

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Ten bolts man!!! Stop messing about and just do it!!!

Nice job otherwise.

Ok ok!!! So fellas, tomorrows job is removing the rear tray because Das says so!!! More to follow!!

looking good Si... plenty of progress!
regards prop thickness etc i think the UJ will snap before the wall thickness becomes an issue mate.
looking forward to next installment!

Some things to think about wrt props:

Originally Posted by Bush65

Below is a pic I took showing binding angle of stock disco I and II front shafts and a Nissan shaft.



http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...PropShafts.jpg

LR 109/110/130 props are a smaller diameter than ideal, but rarely seem to fail. Diameter is less critical on shorter prps liuke you have.

Disco 1 rear props on the other hand I have seen fail.

Given the torque you will have available I would be inclined to use heavy wall tube - and also 1350 unis and high angle yokes (or a DC shaft).

If its any use heres how they did same on my car,
note they raised nose of diff by using wedged spacers btwn spring and spring perch . (arrow points to barely visible spring perch) Transfer case is horizontal, so they used DC on both ends of prop.
I dont really know why they pointed the rear diff uphill ??

Front diff sits level, no DC on front. Oil fill holes are the same on both ends, I thought the rear diff should have more oil to account for raised nose.



runs silky smooth, no vibes anywhere.

Originally Posted by goingbush

If its any use heres how they did same on my car,
note they raised nose of diff by using wedged spacers btwn spring and spring perch . (arrow points to barely visible spring perch) Transfer case is horizontal, so they used DC on both ends of prop.
I dont really know why they pointed the rear diff uphill ??

Front diff sits level, no DC on front. Oil fill holes are the same on both ends, I thought the rear diff should have more oil to account for raised nose.



runs silky smooth, no vibes anywhere.

I take it that's under the Daily...? The shaft looks to come in at exactly the same plain as the diff nose.... Wonder why there's a double cardy joint there.... I'm not too worried about the rear prop.. Short tho it is it has wide angle ends, and thicker 3mm tube wall thickness. Its the front shaft (ex 110 rear) that only has the 2mm wall thickness and worries me.. Given, the tube is larger diameter, but this is actually a pain as its close to the bell housing and the sump will need modifying. A smaller 109" rear prop would have the smaller tube but thicker wall. I've been offered one in QLD but am going to see if any turn up in SA over the next week.

Yes, its the Daily,
what about an 1980's jeep cherokee front prop, I used one in a V8 Auto conversion about 20 yrs ago because of clearance issues , it was about 1.5" dia and bulletproof.