Thread: 3.5 v8 Dead - options

The standard Series 3 electric gauge works fine with the V8 sender.
Getting it to fit to an original 101 manifold is more of an issue though.

Also, I am aware that there are at least 2 different temp senders for the V8 depending on where they were sold.
Personally I don't see the poi t in having a mega accurate gauge. Provided the cooling system is up to scratch there's no reason why the standard gauge (correctly set) shouldn't tell you all you need to know.

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

The standard Series 3 electric gauge works fine with the V8 sender.
Getting it to fit to an original 101 manifold is more of an issue though.

Also, I am aware that there are at least 2 different temp senders for the V8 depending on where they were sold.
Personally I don't see the poi t in having a mega accurate gauge. Provided the cooling system is up to scratch there's no reason why the standard gauge (correctly set) shouldn't tell you all you need to know.

Do you have a part number for the correct sender? I purchased a series 3 electric gauge and a sender that was described as useful for both series 3 petrol and range rover v8. At normal operating temps, confirmed through my vdo gauge and a stand alone temp sensor, the series 3 electric gauge shows its the needle just in the red. I was going to put in a resistor to fudge the reading as I haven't been able to confirm the correct part number that I should be using.

The issue is they've broken the capillary type sender... The military series type is the same, but not long enough to suit a 101. Tom has sent his off for repair, and then hopefully he'll be mobile!!

Why doesn't he fit up an "engine guardian" or similar .... That way he can keep track of the temperature until he sources a new sensor... He could always hide it out of site once the original temp gauge is working again, and just use it as an audible warning to check the temperature gauge.

[ame=http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIESEL-ENGINE-OVERHEATING-CONTROL-ALERT-MONITOR-ALARM-/181172679442?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item 2a2ebbb312&_uhb=1]Diesel Engine Overheating Control Alert Monitor Alarm | eBay[/ame]

At least this gets you driving again! You also don't need to stuff around trying to modify aftermarket sensors to work. It just bolts to any bit of metal on the engine.

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by stuee

Do you have a part number for the correct sender?

leave it with me.

Hi All,

Well after what felt like an eternity - I picked-up Harry last night...

Initial impressions on the 40 minute drive home - fantastic. The car is a lot quieter, it can now do 100kmh, cold start is instant, warm start a little harder, I actually used the HD head lights for the first time in anger - and I am very happy indeed.

The only minor concern - the oil temp gauge did not move off cold for the entire journey home. Yes it was a cool night (5c) but I would have thought that in 40 minutes, some temp would have shown up... I am going to check and make sure that it was re-connected during the engine replacement...

Here is a summary of the work that was carried out:
* Replace head gaskets
* Replace rear main seal
* Replace valley gaskets
* Replace exhaust gaskets
* Replace thermostat
* Radiator clean - 50% blocked
* Install new engine
* Install new water pump, viscous fan, pulley, fan blade
* Install new HTC leads, spark plugs, coil
* Both carbies leaking fuel - needles bent. Replaced all gaskets, fuel needle, main jet & needle.
* Fitted new kick down cable - new brackets & linkages fabricated.
* Repair temp gauge & capillary & re-calibrate

Sitec - here is a picture of the head gaskets that they replaced:


I have only driven the car briefly (40 minutes) but apart from there appearing to be no oil temp - I am very happy with how it drives.

Much quieter. Sounds nicer from the outside. Kick back cable works well (now the Mrs can drive it without having to worry about manually changing down).

Onwards and upwards!!

Hi Sitec / Gav,

Small update - I rang the mechanic to say: "Well the car drove well, the only thing that I noticed was that the oil temp gauge wasn't working?"

The mechanic said: "No it doesn't - you will need to get some special cables made up for the 3.9, because the ones on the 3.5 don't fit"

So that answers that question... But it then poses the next question - what to do about it?

The head gaskets were leaking into the valley.
I hope you told the mechanic not to tension up the outer row of bolts, but just do them to say 25Ft lbs, as it is their tension that puls the outside down and lifts the inside. That is why they deleted the 5th bolt on later heads.

Regards Philip A