3.5 v8 Dead - options

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Originally Posted by grey_ghost

The mechanic said: "No it doesn't - you will need to get some special cables made up for the 3.9, because the ones on the 3.5 don't fit"

So that answers that question... But it then poses the next question - what to do about it?

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The oil temp gauge is a capillary type like the water temp gauge. It should be screwed into the oil cooler I think. Have a look to see if it's connected. It may be broken. Get the contact details of the instrument repairers from the mechanics. You may need them, I certainly do.

When is Gav paying a visit next?

Hi Mick,

I am away for a week (starting tomorrow) so hopefully I will hook-up with Gav next weekend or the one after..

I won't get a chance to look over the oil cooler - but I certainly will as soon as I get back..

Thanks for the replies..

Like the engine temp sender - the oil temp sender WAS working before you took it there - it is definately as mentioned - a capillery tube to the oil cooler - my guess is that have ****ed that as well....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grey_ghost

The temp gauge has been sent to a company in Melbourne that can repair gauges. That's a 5-7 working day turn around.

,

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I was collecting parts off a 2A on the weekend and one of the things it had was a Smiths water temperature gauge, with capillary tube.

My 82 year old mechanic friend told me that he repaired one once by drilling a hole in the bulb; filling the tube and bulb with ether; and then very quickly sealing the hole with soft-solder,

Cheers Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chazza

I was collecting parts off a 2A on the weekend and one of the things it had was a Smiths water temperature gauge, with capillary tube.

My 82 year old mechanic friend told me that he repaired one once by drilling a hole in the bulb; filling the tube and bulb with ether; and then very quickly sealing the hole with soft-solder,

Cheers Charlie

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You can do that if you want the needle to move but calibrating it will give an accurate reading.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

You can do that if you want the needle to move but calibrating it will give an accurate reading.

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Good point!

I suppose there is some mechanical method of adjusting it inside the works?

Cheers Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chazza

Good point!

I suppose there is some mechanical method of adjusting it inside the works?

Cheers Charlie

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When I opened my gauges (both water and oil temp) there didn't appear to be any mechanical adjustment possible? It may simply be a case of bending the needle into the right place??

I ended up with a new oil temp gauge from Cradocks, but will look to get my water temp gauge repaired after the 101 is on the road, in the mean time I have an electric series 3 gauge.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/08/605.jpg

From what I understand, they're calibrated by the quantity of ether put into the bulb.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stuee

I ended up with a new oil temp gauge from Cradocks, but will look to get my water temp gauge repaired after the 101 is on the road, in the mean time I have an electric series 3 gauge

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Save yourself any grief and just stick with the electric one...

Hi Guys,

I have been away this last week - but have now managed to have a look at the 101 in day light...

I believe the reason why the Oil Temp gauge isn't working is because.... Drum Roll..

The Oil Cooler is NOT connected - and as everybody on here has already pointed out, the Oil Temp Gauge feeds off the oil cooler... :o :eek:

My next batch of questions are:

Can I connect the oil cooler up to the 3.9 - and is it just a matter of longer cables OR perhaps a different thread on the engine side of the cables?

Next question - how dangerous is it to drive the 101 without an oil cooler? I have to assume that an oil cooler is required as part of the original design - so I think that I shuld limit my mileage to short trips until I get the oil cooler re-fitted.

Sitec - did you run this engine without an oil cooler?

I am going back to the mechanic on Monday to pickup the original engine - and will ask for all of the cables, etc left over from it.

Everyone - am I correct in thinking that I should re-fit the oil cooler?

Any advice, opinions are greatly appreciated..