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Megajolt ignition allows two different advance maps, which are switchable, which would be ideal for dual-fuel. Another advantage of Megajolt is that it can be programmed with a PC, or laptop; including live data, whilst the car is being driven.
For fuel injected engines Megasquirt performs the same functions, with the addition of being able to control the injectors.
Thanks for the info bed_bug! Have you any links to advance curves?
Cheers Charlie
With a megajolt can you still use a dizzy and points?
I'll dig out the two curves and post up the picture.
Although shared up on the net this was in an LPG fact book thing I had. What you can see in the background is the other side of the page that was scanned in.
Its not the comparison of the 3 fuels I spoke of, I still cant find that :( .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/08/685.jpg
If you use a thing called an EDIS8 made by Ford, the distributor can be chucked in the bin.Quote:
Originally Posted by bed_bug
The big advantage of using Megajolt with EDIS8 is that the static advance will be a perfect 10 degrees forever with no change; unlike a distributor, which wears with use, which of course changes the ignition advance.
Some people use Megasuirt with a distributor, but for the love of me, I can't work out why they would! With a trigger-wheel and sensor on the crankshaft, all of the manufacturing and wear tolerances between the crankshaft and the distributor, can be eliminated!
Have a look here Main Page - Autosport Labs
Cheers Charlie
The ignition I have gives me multiple sparks at low RPM and I'm not seeing that much advantage in moving that far forward in a 101.
I like to keep things so that, stuck up to my diffs in mud miles from anywhere I can still sort an issue by defaulting to basics. Which is what keeps me using carbs too.
Thanks for the info tho.
I felt the same during my research phase :D In fact I didn't think I would ever change to computer ignition; however; the good news is that the EDIS is very reliable and is probably more reliable than a distributor. Even so I keep a spare one in the car. The computer needs to be kept dry and coolish, so it usually lives in the cab with the driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by bed_bug
Connecting them is just some simple wiring, no more complicated than the low tension wiring in a conventional ignition circuit. The high tension side is much the same as original, except that it is waterproof at the coils :D
The computer and the EDIS are protected with fuses, so as long as it is installed well with soldered joints, the chance of catastrophic failure is very slim. The VR sensor on the crankshaft can fail but they are very cheap, about the size of two matchboxes and can be unbolted and replaced at the side of the road if necessary.
On my Alpine I have kept the original ignition system in the engine bay, so I can reconnect it in about a minute, if the Megajolt fails,
Cheers Charlie
I've just finished a little stop gap project and thought i'd update my thread and share some knowledge.
1 it is possible to remove all the pistons and rods with the block still in place. More importantly theres also enough space to get the ring compressor in to get the lot back in there too. So I replaced all the rings.
2 The later head used on the 4.0 and 4.6 will bolt onto the 3.5 if you use the composite 3.5 gasket. The end fixings for alternators etc on each end if the heads have a larger thread so you need to drill out your existing alternator and gear linkage bracket and use bolts to suit. I don't think it's worth running the even larger aftermarket valves as they will be shrouded by the cylinder wall anyway. You may need either adjustable push rods or a pedestal shim kit to get your lifter preloads back into spec. V easy with adjustable push rods and you can set each one individually too.
Next job is building the 9.8:1 4.6L and this minor refresh has bought me some time.
Steve
Thought I'd post some pics of the Chris Velardi Style manifolds I had fabricated. The offside one you simply cut off and rotate the vertical down pipe section and this will clear the handbrake rod by 1/4" or so. the Nearside took six attempts to complete. It's not quite the same as Chris's. The front port tubes were cut off and about 9/16 taken out at that point. The flexible joint was taken out also. My truck has the winch, so clearing the chassis mounted pulley makes an extra obstacle. Using a spare 101 bell housing and old V8 engine we bolted up an original 101 Nearside manifold and part if the down pipe. This enabled us to find the angle and centreline of the original pipe. As a result, the Nearside pipe takes the original route through between the Gearbox mount and the Winch drive shaft. These manifolds gave me the opportunity to build a full 57mm system with a 26" cherry bomb in place of the last tail pipe section. My fabricator would make more sets of the manifolds but it is a fiddly job. However it is a one time thing as they're stainless and the sale of my originals pulled in nearly enough cash to cover it. In fact one set I sold raised more cash that a pair of these. Attachment 84074Attachment 84075
Hi! Do the manifolds make a difference in power? They'd have to make a difference in sound for sure!! :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
Did you not get to listen to mine over the diesel racket from yours when I was over your way? Mine has custom made headers in place of the original manifold too.
Diesel racket!! pftt!! Thats a fast economical purr youre talking about... :wasntme: Yeah, yours sounded good.. I'd be interested in a 'before and after' comparison of power with swept extractors over the originals.. It would have to be better, just interested in how much better.. A lot of the diesel boys are doing it now on tractor pullers etc. I think Id have to rethink my props, LT230 and welded gear before I go too crazy, tempting tho it is!!Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBoRover
